RUSSIA TOUR
- SCENES ON VOLGA RIVER

JOHN SLOAN

Here is photography by John Sloan of scenes along the Volga River and then on the Sheksna River, Lakes Onega and Ladoga and the Neva River. mostly outside the cities at which we stopped, and show their photographs in named sections

On this cruise we went from Moscow to St. Petersburg on the Russian cruise ship, N. Chernishevski, which Vantage Tours charters each summer. Thus it was not only on the Volga River. The route was as follows: Volga-Moscow Canal, Volga River to Rybinsk Reservoir, diversion down Volga to Yaroslavl and back to Rybinsk, Across the Rybinsk Reservoir, up the Lower Sheksna River, across the Sizminski floodwaters, up the Upper Sheksna River, across White Lake, along the Volga-Baltic Canal including parts of rivers, across Lake Onega, down the Svir River, across Lake Ladoga, down the Neva River. Of course the ship moved along all night as well as day, so we didn't have the opportunity to photograph all the scenery. This directory contains only photos along the route, excluding photos at the several towns including Uglich, Yaroslavl, Kizhi Island, Petrozavodsk,Mandrogi and of course Moscow and St. Petersburg all of which are in linked directories. Also somewhat arbitrarily photos on board the N. Chernishevski are separate. For photos and text of the Volga River between Moscow and Kazan from our cruises in 1997 and 2003 please go to Volga.

It has been raining most of the time we have been in Moscow and another storm is coming as we depart the Northern River Port - Here we see several of the many river cruise ships tied to the dock in front of the port headquarters building.

The N. Chernishevski is pulling away from the dock at the Northern River Port.

We are underway for a long cruise on Russian rivers and lakes to St. Petersburg. Many other cruise ships will be doing the same from the Northern River port at Moscow.

Passing the Northern River port headquarters and several cruise ships of different sizes.

Several tall apartment houses just north of Moscow as we pass in early evening.

The northern suburb of Moscow close to the canal with more high rise apartments.

Close-up view of the Northern River Port headquarters as we pass into theVolga - Moscow canal.

A small naval vessel docked just north of Moscow on the canal.

The bow of the N. Chernishevski is now pointed directly into the Volga-Moscow canal as we head north.

The Volga-Moscow canal is very narrow in many places - here we are close to the bank and see a church through the trees.

A church being repainted - seen through the trees along the Moscow-Volga canal

The upper part of the control building at the first lock we reach on the canal around 11 PM - it is lock number 6 at Iksha 47 kilometers from the Northern River Port. It is 290 by 30 meters by 5.5 meters depth in size with a drop of 8 meters. The statues are to Soviet workers, but one should recall that the canal was built by slave labor as part of Stalin's construction program.

Looking back, after the ship has entered a canal lock and dropped. Note the water level of the canal is much higher beyond the gate.

Morning and George and John are on deck as the ship is in another lock - this view is forward as we wait for the downstream gate to open -

Amanda and Elizabeth are on deck to enjoy the very early morning sunshine, after so much rain in Moscow - note we are in a canal lock one abutment is just visible between their shoulders.

Some of the new 'dachas' being built everywhere outside Moscow and other major cities.

The Volga is flooded due to hydroelectric dams - here is the mouth of a small tributary seen in the morning.

One of the many fishermen out early on the Volga - when driving on roads near the rivers one sees the fish hanging on lines awaiting buyers.

Another group of dachas in the early morning sunshine next to the Volga.

A stretch of the Volga where it is very wide due to the dam.

Volga river bank near Kalyazin.

Another stretch of the upper Volga.

Passing a town on the upper Volga

Possibly the most photographed spot on the upper Volga - the bell tower at Kalyazin - note the large satellite receiver dish far in the background.

A closer view of the bell tower at Kalyazin - the town was flooded when the Volga was dammed at Uglich.

The belltower at Kalyazin was moved from its location which is now underwater and set on this earthen pedestal.

The belltower at Kalyazin was moved from its location which is now underwater and set on this earthen pedestal.

In this telephoto the huge satelite down link dish appears much closer to the bell tower than it actually is.

Now, as the ship passes, the tower and dish are lined up.

The bell tower at Kalyazin.

The bell tower at Kalyazin.

The bell tower at Kalyazin.

The broad Volga expanded above the big dam at Uglich.

Another lovely church along the Volga.

Another lovely church along the Volga.

A church on the bank of the Volga river near Uglich.

A church on the bank of the Volga river near Uglich.

A church on the bank of the Volga river near Uglich.

A church on the bank of the Volga river near Uglich.

A church on the Volga near Uglich.

A church on the Volga near Uglich.

Cattle grazing by the Volga river bank.

The huge hydroelectric dam at Uglich that created the reservoir out of the upper Volga for miles back. We are entering the lock adjacent to the dam.

While passing through the lock at Uglich this view shows a typical Russian village im which each house has a garden and outhouse and some fruit trees.

The N. Chernishevski approaches Uglich. See the Uglich directory for many photos.

Another river cruise ship passes as we approach Uglich.

Another river cruise ship passes as we approach Uglich.

Amanda and Elizabeth return to the Chernishevski from a luncheon in Uglich with flowers given by their Russian hosts.

Abandoned building by Volga river.

Sunset on the Volga shortly after our departure from Uglich. We then passed through the lock at Rybinsk while we slept soundly, on our way down the Volga to Yaroslavl.

A church on the Volga below Rybinsk in the very early morning light. Dawn found us already approaching Yaroslavl.

Another town on the Volga a short distance north-west -upstream - from Yaroslavl.

Aproaching Yaroslavl in the early morning light - this is a right bank town - suburb of Yaroslavl.

Volga river town in early morning light.

A church in a Volga river town - at this point we passed an engineer pontoon bridge unit railroad bridge - more photos on the way back in the afternoon.

This section of railroad bridge on pontoons extends from the right bank of the Volga - but there is no railroad on the bank.

Another view of the section of bridge extending from the Volga right bank.

The Tolgski Convent on the Volga left bank as we pass it early in the morning - backlighted just after dawn. We will have photos again in the afternoon.

Notice how much higher the right bank of the Volga is than the left bank. Here we are nearly to Yaroslavl. At this point go here for the visit to Yaroslavl

A telephoto view of the Tolgski Convent in the afternoon as we approach going back up the Volga after a visit to Yaroslavl.

The Tolgski convent in the distance. It is now a functioning convent.

The Tolgski convent in the distance. It is now a functioning convent.

The Tolgski convent as we pass close by. It is now a functioning convent.

The Tolgski convent as we pass close by. It is now a functioning convent.

We pass the same pontoon railroad bridge going upstream on the Volga in the afteroon - this section is from the right bank

We pass the same pontoon railroad bridge going upstream on the Volga in the afteroon - this is the section from the left bank.

Romano-Borisoglebsk is a village on both banks of the Volga between Yaroslavl and Rybinsk.

We are approaching Romano-Borisoglebsk - this is the right bank part of this interesting town that is on both sides of the Volga since medieval times. We stopped here in 2003 but this time simply cruised right past.

At this point there are several hills on the left bank of the Volga and that is why Prince Roman built his fortress here opposite the Boriso-glebsk village. Now there is a cathedral on the right bank and a series of churches on the left bank. This first church to come in view from the south is the Voznesenskaya (Ascension) Church

The Voznesenskaya (Ascension) church on the Volga left bank is on the remains of the medieval ramparts of Romano-borisoglebsk. It was built in 1795 by local merchants and parishioners. The area is known as "Leontyevka" because a church dedicated to St. Leonti of Rostov used to be there.

The Krestovozdvizhenski (Exaltation of the Cross) Cathedral appears through the trees on the Volga left bank. It is on a square in the center of this part of Romano-Boriso-Glebsk.

The Kazanskaya (Preobrazhenskaya) - Kazan Transfiguration - church is closest to the water on the Volga left bank at Romano-Borisoglebsk. It was built in 1758 with 5 altars, one of which is dedicated to the Kazan Icon of the Blessed Mother and another to the Transfiguration of our Lord, and yet another to St Nicholas the Wonderworker. The belfrey is where Blessed Omufri is buried.

The Voskresenski (Resurrection) Cathedral in Romano-Borisoglebsk is back lighted in the afternoon sun as it stands high on the Volga right bank. For photos of this town made in 2003 go here.

Romano-Borisoglebsk is such a small town that it is bypassed by all the commercial tourist cruise ships.

The Kazan- Transfiguration Church -- in Romano-Borisoglebsk on the Volga left bank.

The Voskresenski (Resurrection) Cathedral in Romano-Borisoglebsk - Volga river right bank. It was built in 1652-78 from the funds collected by the local population of some 5000 souls. The interior is elaborately decorated with walls covered by frescos painted by Yaroslavl's best artists under direction of Grigori Plekhanov. We have some photos of these in the other directory. It has 6 altars dedicated to various saints.

The Kazan- Transfiguration church in Romano-Borisoglebsk.

The Spaso-Archangelskaya (Savior-Archangel) church in Romano-Borisoglebsk on the Volga left bank was built in 1746 to replace two wooden churches. It has two altars.

The Spaso-Archangelskaya (Savior-Archangel) church in Romano-Borisoglebsk on the Volga left bank was built in 1746 to replace two wooden churches. It has two altars.

The Troitza (Trinity) church on the Volga left bank in Romano-Borisoglebsk was built on a graveyard by direction of Rostov Archbishop Samuel in 1783. It has three altars dedicated to - The Lifegiving Trinity, to Saint Nicholas the Wonderworker and to the Prophet Elijha.

The Spaso-Archangelskaya Church in Romano-Borisoglebsk on the left bank of the Volga..

The Resurection Cathedral on the right bank of the Volga in Romano-Borisoglebsk.

The Resurection Cathedral in Romano-Borisoglebsk. There are other churches that are not visible easily from the level of the river. These include the Blagoveshchenskaya (1660) and the Svyato-Ioannovskii on the Volga right bank and the SpasoTikhonovskaya (1914) on the left bank.

Now we are coming to Rybinsk - location of a very large hydroelectric plant and dam which has created the huge Rybinsk reservoir from the combined blockage of the Volga and Sheksna rivers.

A rocket ship - hydrofoil - local passenger ferry is rapidly overtaking us from astern on the Volga as we approach Rybinsk.

The rocket ship is about to pass us on the Volga river as we go upstream.

There goes the hydrofoil past us on the Volga. It will beat us to Rybinsk for sure.

Now we are coming to Rybinsk - location of a very large hydroelectric plant and dam which has created the huge Rybinsk reservoir from the combined blockage of the Volga and Sheksna rivers.Here on the Volga left bank we see picnic party and cabin cruiser.

Rybinsk, with the hydropower, is a significant industrial town. Here is a tugboat.

A dredge in the Volga just south of Rybinsk.

Rybinsk is a shipyard town. Here is an interesting example of a ship being worked on.

Rybinsk is also a busy Volga river port - here are piles of sand and gravel delivered by barge.

The Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral and a bridge across the Volga at Rybinsk are silhouetted by the late afternoon sun as we approach the city.

The Cathedral of Our Savior's Transfiguration (Spaso-Preobrazhenski) stands close to the Volga River right bank with very few other buildings nearby.

The Spaso-Preobrazhenski (Savior's Transfiguration) Cathedral in Rybinsk.

The Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral in Rybinsk.

The New Bread Exchange restored building on the Volga right bank in Rybinsk.

Right bank of Volga in downtown Rybinsk

Passing by Rybinsk with its cathedral and downtown on Volga River right bank.

Typical Russian highrise apartments - although more modern appearing than in the past are right on the Volga river left bank where it is actually canalized just downstream of the dam and lock.

A ship headed downstream on the Volga as we approach the dam and lock at Rybinsk

More apartments on the left bank of the Volga just south of the dam and lock. The center of Rybinsk is on the other bank.

We are approaching the lock at the hydrostation dam at Rybinsk, going upstream on the Volga, and we will be raised here to the level of the Rybinsk reservoir.

Approaching the double lock on the Volga at Rybinsk headed upstream.

Entering the lock at Rybinsk. It is 290 by 30 by 21 meters and the ship will be raised 14 meters.

Entering the lock at Rybinsk. It is 290 by 30 by 21 meters and the ship will be raised 14 meters.

We are inside the lock at Rybinsk. Note that we are well below the level of the concrete lip of the upper gate. The large drum carries a chain drive that raises and lowers the upper gate. In the lower left corner is a slidding white fastener of which there are many along the lock to which the ship is fastened to prevent motion as the water enters.

As the water pours through underground galleries to raise the ship, the experienced birds circle to catch stray fish.

Now we are in the lock at Rybinsk and waiting for the ship to continue to rise. We ar on the top deck - note how much higher is the water level in the reservoir.

The ship is rapidly rising and the birds are continuing to circle as the N.Chernishevski is raised in the Volga River lock at Rybinsk

The upper gate in the lock on the Volga River at Rybinsk as we wait to be raised

Now the level of water inside the lock is almost equal to that in the Rybinsk reservoir as the giant drum is prepared to lower the gate. The control mechanisms on canal lock gates are all automatic.

The upper gate for the Rybinsk lock on the Volga has now disappeared and the N. Chernishevski is about to cruise out onto Rybinsk Reservoir on our way to St. Petersburg.

We are leaving one of the parallel locks on the Volga at Rybinsk - there is a garden with fountain between us and the other lock viewed through the trees.

Elizabeth and Amanda on deck of the N.Chernishevski as we clear the lock on the Volga, whose tower is in the background. We are now entering the Rybinsk reservoir.

The control tower of the locks on the Volga River at Rybinsk.

The control tower of the Rybinsk locks - visible also is the adjacent parallel lock to the one we passed through.

The statue of "Mother Volga" facing the sunset (that is practically north) on a spit where the Rybinsk reservoir is controled by dam and locks leading to the Volga River. - A curious bird is checking the statue.

"Mother Volga' statue greets travelers approaching the Rybinsk hydroelectric dam and locks that hole back the upper Volga and form the reservoir, once through the locks they can continue down the Volga to the Caspian sea. But we are now traveling in the opposite direction, leaving the Volga to cross the reservoir.

A church on the shore of the Rybinsk Reservoir just after we clear the Rybinsk lock.

Sunset nearly north as we start across the Rybinsk reservoir toward Cheropovets. We pass Cheropovets during the night - no problem, as it is not much of a tourist attraction anyway.

Sunset as we cross the Rybinsk reservoir on our way to St. Petersburg.

By morning we are already on the Lower Sheksna river headed for White Lake. The villages are becoming even more sparse.

A village where the Sheksna river is wider at the Sizminskiy floodwaters.

A village where the Sheksna river is wider at the Sizminskiy floodwaters.

Another village ( Ivanov Bor?) along the Sheksna River between Rybinsk reservoir and White Lake.

In the distance (by telephoto) we first see the Resurection Convent at Goritsi, which is actually around the bend in the Sheksna River.

We continue north of the Sheskna River - note the line of bouys marking the channel around the point where the Resurection Convent is located. We see two other cruise ships are there or just leaving.

We continue north on the Sheskna River - starting to swing around the point where the Resurection Convent is located. We see two other cruise ships are there or just leaving.

The Resurection Cathedral in the convent at Goritsy. Work to restore it has been going on since 1997, but it is clearly in need of much work. The convent was founded in 1544 by Princess Yefrosina, wife of Andrei Ivanovich Staritski. The family opposed Tsar Ivan IV and were either executed or exiled. Yefrosina was sent here. For centuries after that many noble women were exiled her to join the regular nuns. The buildings are the Resurection Cathedral and Chapel of St. Dmitri, with bell tower built by Ivan IV's last wife, Mariya Nagaya, as a memorial to her murdered son, Dmitri. and the Trinity Cathedral.

Two of the many river cruise ships, tied up here at Goritsy. The main attraction here is not this Resurection Convent, but rather the even more famous and larger Monastery of St. Krill of White Lake (Beloozerski Monastery) which is a short bus ride further on. Many cruise ships stop to visit that fortress monastery. However, we didn't stop, unfortunately.

One of the few crossing points on the Sheksna river

We are approaching the ruin of the Nativity Church of Krokhino at the mouth of the Upper Sheksna River. It was founded in the 15th century and later was expanded to a monastery and then the village of Krokhino developed around it as a river port. The whole area was flooded when the Soviet government constructed yet another hydroelectric plant and dam.

Ruin of the Nativity Church of Krokhino on the Upper Sheksna River near White Lake

Ruin of the Nativity Church of Krokhino on the Upper Sheksna River near White Lake

Ruin of the Nativity Church of Krokhino on the Upper Sheksna River near White Lake. Note how this entire region is flooded or a swamp. Very desolate area.

Its a tight squeeze as another cruise ship approaches going the other way on the Sheksna River.

Its a tight squeeze as another cruise ship approaches going the other way on the Sheksna River.

Sunset and we are waiting for a large tanker to clear lock number 6 at Devyatini (Pakhomovskiy Hydroelectric plant) on the Kovzha River (a drop of 16.25 meters). We are headed nearly due west but note how far north of west the sun is setting at this far northern latitude. At this point we are still 80 meters above Lake Onega and 116 meters above St. Petersburg. We hoped to catch sight of the 5 domes of the Assumption Church in Devyatini but it was too dark.

The tanker finally passes by - the sun has set - but it will remain twilight for hours here in the Kovzha River near Lake Onega

Another tanker passing us on the busy Volga-Baltic Canal system - Kovzha River.

The terrain around the Kovzha River and its opening on Lake Onega is low, swampy, forested. There are so many trees drowned in the water that it has turned dark brown.

A solitary piece of human construction in this otherwise empty wilderness. This may be from the earlier Mariinskaya canal system of Peter the Great that was drowned and superceeded by the modern Soviet canal system.

The tower is a light house that marks the mouth of the Kovzha River where it enters Lake Onega.

The southern shore of Lake Onega as we enter it from the Kovzha River in the morning.

Sunset on Lake Onega

Sunset on lake Onega.

We have now crossed Lake Onega, visited Petrozavodvsk and Kizhi Island and returned south on the lake to the entrance to the Svir River that empties Lake Onega into Lake Ladoga. Our first half day was occupied by a cake decoration demonstration on board and then a 'pirate' party after the tour of Petropavlovsk and then another party with tea and samovars during the afternoon cruise from Kizhi Island. So we didn't take photos of the open lakes. However, here we encounter northern Russian villages again including Vosnoesenye where the Ascension monastery stood for 200 years.

Village on the right bank of the Svir River in late afternoon.

A substantial village with a wooden church on the right bank of the Svir River in evening.

This section of the Svir River is flooded and called the Ivinskiy Flooded Area. Here two ships are passing us bound south for Rybinsk and beyond. This is the last photo we took in late evening - next morning, when we awoke, we were at Mandrogi.

Here we are departing Mandrogi after a very interesting 3/4 day excursion to this new tourist stop. It is very popular already, to judge from the number of cruise ships that stopped while we were there. One of these is the 'Kazan' - a very unusual craft that appears to be converted for passengers from some other type.

The midship section of the Kazan - one can see from the deck and porthole - or window - lay out that it is much different from all the other cruise ships encountered.

The aft section of the Kazan, quite different from that of the typical Maxim Rylski tied up next to it at Mandrogi.

Departing Mandrogi on the Svir River bound for Lake Ladoga.

Continuing to cruise on the Svir River from Mandrogi toward Lake Ladoga. The view from the sun deck shows that someone on a lower deck was feeding the birds.

The Svir is again wide due to another lock - the lower Svir Lock at Svirstroy, which we are approaching here..

The hydroelectric plant next to the lock at Svirstroy. This lock and plant were opened in 1933, but the lock was blown up by Soviet troops during World War II to prevent the German army offensive. The Svir is 215 kilometers long and freezes from December to April. The total drop from Lake Onega to Ladoga is 36 meters, of which 12 is in this lock.

We are in the lock on the Svir River at Svirstroy and looking at an adjacent electrical power transformer field. From the looks, it appears that it has not been modernized since installation right after World War II.

The N. Chernishevski towers above the adjacent gardens and buildings next to the Lower Svir River lock - prior to being lowered 12 meters to the level of Lake Ladoga.

The upstream gate has closed behind us and we have been lowered 12 meters and are waiting for the downstream gate to open at the Lower Svir River lock at Svirostroy.

We are in the Lower Svir River lock and see that a small craft has slipped into the lock behind us.

We have left the Lower Svir River lock behind, still being followed by a small ship. Now we have 80 kilometers to travel on the river before reaching Lake Ladoga. But this is the last lock we will pass through on our journey from Moscow to St. Petersburg.

Here we are coming out of the channel of the Lower Svir River lock onto the main stream of the river. And we see the downstream side of the hydroelectric dam. In the 1920's American engineer consultants advised against construction of a dam here, but the Russians went ahead and succeeded. The lock was blown up during World war II but rebuilt and has functioned ever since. But the relative gentle slope of terrain in Russia indicates that many of the dams, such as this one generate electricity mostly from volume of water flow rather than head achieved by a large drop.

A last look via telephoto at the final lock on our journey - the Lower Svir River lock at Svirstroy.

Here we are still on the Svir River but almost to Lake Ladoga - to the left, as we pass is the entrance to the canal that was built just inland from the south shore to enable smaller ships to avoid crossing the lake between the Neva and Svir rivers. Ladoga is so large and so subject to intense storms that it is dangerous for navigation by small craft. At this point in our cruise we were all on deck for the very enjoyable 'captain's farewell reception' - see the Chernishevski folder for photos.

Sviritza village occupies several islands at the mouth of the Svir River at Lake Ladoga. It is the residence of some ship navigators and also those in the timber industry.

Sviritza village occupies several islands at the mouth of the Svir River at Lake Ladoga. It is the residence of some ship navigators and also those in the timber industry.

The many islands and marsh areas here, where the Svir enters Lake Ladoga are part of a nature preserve that is home for many animals and birds.

Sunset as we cross Lake Ladoga toward St. Petersburg. In addition to the usual excellent dinner, this evening featured a talent show put on by the tourists, see the Chernishevski folder for some views.

Sunset at a northern latitude in July on Lake Ladoga comes very late at night.

Twilight on Lake Ladoga in July lasts for hours.

Twilight on Lake Ladoga in July lasts for hours. This is the last photography of our selection from the cruise on the N. Chernishevski, but not the last by any means of the tour. We docked very early the next morning in St. Petersburg and lived on board during our 4-day excursion in the city. Please go to St. Petersburg for photos.