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MEMOIR ON
MAPS
OF CHINESE TURKISTAN AND KANSU
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From the Surveys Made During Sir
Aurel Stein's Explorations 1900-1, 1906-8, 1913-5
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Sir Aurel Stein
Trigonometrical Survey Office
Dehra Dun, India, 1923
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Title page of Memoir on Maps
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Second title page for this volume
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Dedication page of Memoir on Maps
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Although a set of maps was published as one volume of
Serindia - the report on the Second Expedition, they were compiled from
the surveys conducted during the first and second the expeditions and carefully
corrected at the Survey of India to correct discrepancies, but they did not
include some of the areas surveyed during the third expedition. Other local map
sheets were included in Innermostasia. Vol III, the official report of
the Third Expedition. However, subsequently, with further detailed computations
and cartographic work, incorporating also the results of other surveyors such
as Captain Deasy and Dr. Sven Hedin, another set of maps was published - 47
sheets rather than the 94 in Serindia. The large series in
Serindia is numbered in an orderly sequence from west to east and from
north south. The numbers for this map series are numbered from west to east and
north to south as well.
As these individual map sheets are described in this book , Stein notes what
information is contained from each of the three expeditions. This volume is a
very valuable discussion of the whole topographic survey and creation of the
maps. It was written prior to the publication of the official report on the
Third Expedition in Innermostasia, but subsequent to publication of
"A Third Journey of exploration in Central Asia, 1913-16" in The
Geographical Journal for August and September 1916, xlviii, pp. 97-130
and 193-229.
. In this book Stein focuses, as the title indicates, on the creation of the
maps and their content. Thus in Chapter I he writes and excellent description
of the expeditions themselves from the point of view of the surveying and
triangulation work. It provides an excellent summary of the expeditions.
Therefore he leaves out most of what was being found and what his personal
thoughts about the artifacts were. But this is not simply a summary out of the
official reports and personal memoirs. In those volumes he mostly sticks to his
own travel and of what he was an eye-witness, merely mentioning when one or
another of the surveyors are dispatched to explore and survey other areas. Here
he describes in more detail what he and the Indian surveyors were doing and
where they were during the expeditions. Thus, by leaving out the detailed
descriptions of archeological and cultural work he makes the plane table and
trigonometric surveying stand out clearly. Anyone interested in topographic
surveying and its history will find this of interest. Likewise of interest is
the cartographic work discussed in relation to how the maps were produced.
Therefor this chapter provides added information that enhances the whole story.
In Chapter II he describes the physical geography of each region. The
description is in the official reports but scattered throughout in the mix of
information on all other aspects of his tours. Thus this chapter is an
excellent essay on physical geography.
In Chapter III he focuses on the map-making process.
Chapter IV contains information about the content of each of the 47 map sheets
in the new edition. But there is no indication of where and when the map sheets
were published. They are not in this volume. And this volume has 30 plates of
illustrations mostly of mountain topography. Stein occasionally mentions which
of the Serindia map set relate to a specific map in this series. Since
the notes for each map provide detailed references to the relevant chapters in
the official reports and personal memoirs I will not repeat these references.
The appendices are technical appraisals by two senior British officials on the
Survey of India in which they discuss the quality of the survey work (very
high) and the accuracy of the finished product - some errors introduced by
various causes. The second appendix discusses the accuracy of the aneroid and
mercury barometer (good) and that of the hypsometer (very poor) in determining
accurately elevations. . |
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The cover page for Volume V of Serindia - the set of maps in
that publication. |
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This is the index to the maps given in Serindia volume
V |
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I have compiled two lists of the 94 principal maps in Serindia.
This listing of the maps is in numerical order. They are numbered from left to
right (west to east) in columns from north to south. The list is of the photos
I made of each map sheet. For some maps one photo sufficed but for others
multiple photos were required to capture the detail. |
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This list is of the photographs in the order of the original number
assigned to each map. |
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Stein published a special map showing the watch towers and Han
'limes' north of Tun-huang
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He also published excellent general maps in Desert
Cathay and Ruins of Khotan
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The list of illustrations in the Memoir on Maps
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The cover page to Volume IV of Innermostasia - the set
of maps published with that report
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The list of maps published with Innermostasia |
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The compiled list of the maps in Innermostasia. This listing
of the maps is in numerical order. They are from west to east. Since each map
sheet when photographed entire results as a picture on the computer too small
for good resolution I have photographed sections at higher resolution. Each map
sheet comprises a full rectangle by 2 degrees of longitude and latitude but in
many cases the actual survey occupies a very small part of the map. This is
because the survey was of a narrow track accross the space. |
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The Table of Contents - xi
Preface - vii-ix
List of Abbreviated Titles - x
List of Plates - xii
List of Maps and Charts - xv
Supplementary Corrections - xv
Introductory - 1-2
Chapter I - History of the Surveys - 3 - 40
Section i - General character of the topographical work - 3
Section ii - First expedition 1900-1 - 5
Section iii -Surveys of the Second expedition 1906-08 - 10
Section iv - Surveys of the Third expedition 1913-15 - 24
Chapter II - The Regions Surveyed - 41 - 54
Section i - The Tarim Basin and its mountain ramparts - 41
Section ii - The Taklamakan Desert - 42
Section iii - The oases of the Tarim Basin - 43
Section iv - The terminal depression of Lop and the Turfan Basin - 46
Section v - The Su-lo-Ho Basin -49
Section vi - From the Central Nan-shan to the Etsin-gol Basin - 50
Section vii - The Pei-shan and the Easternmost T'ien-shan - 53
Chapter III - The Maps - 55-62
Section i - Compilation of Maps - 55
Section ii - Representation of physical details - 57
Section iii - Symbols and Local Names - 59
Chapter IV - Notes on Individual Map Sheets - 63 - 105
Appendix A - A short summary of, and discussion into, the merits of the
Triangulation -107-114
Appendix B - Notes on height observations -151-154
Index of local names - 155-198
General Index - 199-207
Addenda et Corrigenda - 208
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Preface
Stein never neglects to heap praise on and give thanks to all those who made
his expeditions possible and rendered assistance during them. In this preface
he focuses naturally on those responsible for the survey, leaving out those
related to the archeological and cultural aspects of the projects. He claims
deepest debt to Colonel Sir Sidney Burrard, R. E. K.C.S. I., F. R. S. who was
Superintendent of the Trigonometrical Survey. He describes the assistance and
his debt to many other officials of the Survey as well. And he includes his
three principal Indian surveyors; Rai Sahib Ram Singh, Rai Bahadur Lal Singh,
and Khan Sahib Afraz-gul; respectively Gurkha, Sikh and Pathan. For some reason
he omits mention of the fourth surveyor.
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Introductory
Stein states that this volume is to record the topographical surveys during the
three expeditions. He notes that his primary object was the archeological
exploration and geographical study. But that with the dedicated assistance of
the expert Indian surveyors he was able to accomplish everything in an area
from the 75th to 102nd degrees of longitude and from the 35th to 44th degrees
of latitude. The surveying involved both plane table and triangulation work.
The careful detailed work of surveying enabled also time for study of the local
physical features as they moved. Where possible he expanded the survey area by
sending the surveyors on separate tracks.
He notes that the maps omit large sections of the Tarim Basin and surrounding
mountains, unavoidably as they are virtually inaccessible. This memoir
describes all three expeditions, but was prepared specifically to accompany a
new set of maps, better in both content and cartographic expression than those
previously published.
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Chapter I - History of the Surveys
Section i - General Character of the Topographical work
Although this memoir is occasioned by the publication of the new set of 40
maps, which are described in detail in subsequent chapters, this chapter on
survey methods applies to all three of the expeditions. Stein begins by
discussing his general survey methods for 'reconnaissance survey' work. By that
I believe he means rapid general surveying without the precision required for
official records. For instance, he did not have instruments for determining
longitude directly, and the astronomical observations for latitude were
hampered by atmospheric conditions. The trigonometric base depended on
relatively few known points for resections and of those many depended on
questionable early surveyors. For the 190-01 survey they used a scale of 8
miles to the inch on plane table, but for the second and third surveys the
scale was 4 miles to the inch a very adequate scale to record many topographic
and vegetation details. In the mountains they worked hard (that is climbed
treacherous ridges) to find the best locations for the plane table. They used
the ancient cyclometer to measure distances while in the desert and flat lands.
Stein describes in detail the difficulties in astronomic observations to
determine longitude. The weather was either do rainy and cloud covered, or the
air was full of dust or the temperature in the mountains was too cold. Moreover
the rapidity of movement, frequently 25 miles a day, left little time for
astronomical observations. For example, he writes, during the second expedition
of 28 months in China there were 488 moves of the camp and he moved 8300 miles.
During the third expedition the rate of movement was similar. Stein accumulated
nearly 7,000 miles and R. B. Lal Singh nearly the same. There was no way to
ascertain longitude as chronometers were not available and not accurate anyway.
But he does note his disappointment at not having a wireless time signal during
the third expedition. Heights were measured by theodolite and by Watkin
mountain aneroids provided by the Survey of India. (see appendix). During the
second and third expeditions these were checked periodically by use of two
mercurial mountain barometers. He notes the use of hypsometric observations.
(Deemed worthless by experts, see appendix). Heights of observed peaks were
calculated by use of clinometers.
In order to expand the area being surveyed Stein detached the experienced
surveyors on separate routes when possible and safe. The plane table surveying
enabled recording details of soil, vegetation, water, and local topography
directly on the map sheets. Stein notes that he paid particular attention to
recording place names as closely to phonetic values of the local Turkish names
as possible and that Chinese names were transliterated on a different
basis.
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Section II - First Expedition, 1900-01
Stein notes right off that he had an excellent assistant in Rai Sahib Ram Singh
who had previously participated in survey expeditions into China. They entered
Chinese Turkistan at the Taghdumbash Pamir via Hunza over the Kilik pass by the
end of June 1900. He notes his use of photogrammetric work with a Bridges-Lee
photo-theodolite. The results of this - panoramic views - are included in his
reports. And they were published separately as Mountain Panoramas from the
Pamirs and Kwen Lun. Starting at the Wakhjur pass at the origins of the
Oxus river the survey extended over the Sarikol valley to where the Zarafshan
River bends eastward near Tashkurghan. Triangulation was begun based on points
previously surveyed by the Pamir Boundary Commission. The survey continued
north past the mighty Muz-tagh-ata massive and Shiwakte mountain. Triangulation
continued around Lake Little Kara-kul. He writes that Ram Singh's work has set
the elevation of Shiwakte (Kongur) at 25,146 feet - higher than Muz-tagh-ata,
24,341 feet. He followed the Gez and Yaman-yar rivers through narrow gorges as
far as Kashgar. (See Ruins of Khotan.) Ram Singh's calculation of the
longitude of Kashgar was 76 degrees 1' 0" very close to subsequent
determination of 75 degrees 59' 5.64".
Stein departed Kashgar at beginning of September for a short visit to some
ruins northeast of the city. Then he traveled southeast to Khotan but not on
the main road. Rather he chose a desert track via the pilgrimage site at
Ordan-padshah in order to study the desert. They rejoined the standard caravan
route at Kizil. This led through Karghalik and Yarkand. The survey was mostly
limited to the line of march plus excursions to several close-by ruins. They
reached Khotan on 13 October. While awaiting winter for desert work, Stein
moved south into the K'un-lun up the Yurung-kash River finding opportunities
for survey stations on high peaks and ridges. They reached the gorges in the
northern most range of the K'un-lun and made views at Tope (13,949 feet). At
Karanghu-tagh they found a colony of exiles. Crossing the Yurung-kash they
managed despite reluctance by the local labor to move for 2 more days up the
river until blocked by impassable gorges. He at least determined that the
Yurung-kash forces its way through the K'un-lun via gorges south and west of
Muz-tagh (K5) a peak previously fixed by the Indian survey from Ladak (south
side). To return to Khotan Stein learned of another trail across mountains to
the north-west. Doing this he mapped the glacier-fed headwaters of other
streams passing through the K'un-lun south of Karanghu-tagh. With yak transport
he crossed the passes between the Kash, Nissa and Chash valleys with excellent
opportunities to establish survey stations on the ridges. He reached the
watershed at Yagan-Dawan between the Yurung-kash and Kara-kash Rivers. Details
are in Ruins of Khotan. (A Map from that book.) Despite setbacks he
finally managed on 7 November to tie his triangulation into the India survey at
Ulughat-Dawan (9,890 feet), the last pass above the Kara-kash river, with
sightings on 4 peaks. On 9 November he repeated the process from a ridge above
the Kunat Pass (10,820 feet). He counted himself fortunate because observations
of any distance were soon obscured by the dust storms carried up from the
desert.
Back at Khotan Stein prepared for the winter explorations while dispatching Ram
Singh on 23 November back south to carry the triangulations from Muz-tagh and
Karanghu-tagh eastward through the K'un-lun foothills. Ram Singh established
base stations close to Karanghu-tagh and on a peak (14,900) above Ulugh-Dawan.
He then moved eastward over the ridges and foothills, while triangulating peaks
to 21,000 feet between the rivers leading to Khotan and Keriya and the Yulung
and Nurfa rivers. When winter cold grew too deep in the high mountains he
descended and continued to survey along the lower foothills eastward to Chira.
He then moved north to Keriya and followed the river of that name north to join
Stein at Dandan-uiliq on 23 December. Meanwhile Stein studied the archeological
remains around Khotan until December 7 when he moved northeast into the desert
conducting plane table traverses over 120 miles to Dandan-uiliq. Ram Singh
conducted his survey over 500 miles, the last 130 of which were in desert
devoid of landmarks for triangulations. Remarkably upon comparing plane tables
at their meeting they found the error of closure as only half a mile of
longitude and less than a mile of latitude.
After finishing excavations at Dandan-uiliq Stein and Ram Singh returned rode
to Keriya and from there to Niya arriving on 21 January 1901. Five days' ride
north of Niya Stein found in the desert the large area of remains abandoned in
the 3rd century. While Stein did the excavating Ram Singh prepared detailed
plot plans of the area and individual ruins. From Niya they moved further east
through unexplored desert to another ruined fort and village on the Endere
River. They started back west on 26 February to Keriya. They then marched for 7
days down the Keriya river back into the desert to find Karadong at which they
found another ruined fort. Completing that excavation they moved west again
surveying as they went to Domoko, Gulakhma and Chira. Continuing west they
surveyed more ground north of Hanguya and found a very special site at Rawak.
With spring dust and heat closing in they rapidly returned to Kashgar via
Yarkand and Kizil. From Kashgar Ram Singh returned to India in charge of the
equipment and Stein entered Russia. He took the railroad across Russian
Turkistan carrying the archeological materials to London. The survey maps were
prepared by the Trigonometric Branch Office of the Survey of India and
published in May 1903. But Stein comments that the technical ability of the map
office prevented them from doing real justice to the excellent plane table
drawings. A better product was published then for the Royal Geographic Society
Journal and in his personal narrative. (see Ancient Khotan - map
included here.)
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Section III - Surveys of Second Expedition, 1906-08
This section is an excellent summary that provides added clarity to the lengthy
but sometimes discursive accounts in the official record and personal memoir.
Stein notes the continued support by officials of the Government of India from
the Viceroy, Lord Curzon, on down and that of the Survey of India as well. He
again received Ram Singh as his associate surveyor. They started on April 28,
1906 from Fort Chakdarra in the Swat Valley. Taking a new route as usual, Stein
rode through tribal valleys of Chitral and Mastij across the Hindukush to the
Chinese border at the Wakhjur Pass on 27 May. From there they again passed
through the Taghdumbash Pamir and Sarikol valley to Tashkurghan. There Rai Ram
Singh began his triangulation with a base near Chushman. He was then to survey
down the Tashkurghan (Zarafshan) River after it bends east over very difficult
unexplored ground until blocked by the high state of the river. Then he turned
north up the Pas-robat stream and across the Merki Pass at 15,000 feet to
survey down the Merki and Kara-tash rivers that flow east from Muz-tagh-ata.
But he was blocked again by spring flood water so crossed the Ghijak Pass to
return to the caravan route between Sarikol and Kashgar. He again found the
Kara-tash River after it leaves the mountains west of Yangi-hissar at which
point he joined Stein in June. Meanwhile Stein took the main caravan route for
180 miles in 6 days across the Chichiklik plateau and Chihil-gumbaz and
Izhiz-yar. At Kashgar he had to organized a much more extensive team and
caravan for two years' of exploration. En route to Khotan Stein again detached
Ram Singh at Kizil to survey a route into foothills of Muz-tagh-ata to a point
meeting the caravan route from Chihil-gumbaz to Yarkand. Together again at
Yarkand in early July they crossed the irrigated area between the Yarkand and
Tiznaf Rivers north-west to the desert edge and then to Karghalik with new
surveying along the Tiznaf River. From Karghalik they rode back south into the
foothills to Kok-yar. There Stein remained at work (see his memoir - Desert
Cathay) while Ram Singh into the mountains toward Khotan. Stein applauds
Ram Singh's success despite hardships and dangers. This effort involved
crossing ravines and gorges eastward between the upper Tiznaf and Yarkand
Rivers. He was unable to cross the Karlik-Dawan due to heavy snow. Instead he
crossed the spurs eastward surveying new areas near the Kara-kash River. He
then crossed the range south over the Kilian pass (17,910 feet) which is the
main pass on the route from Ladak to Yarkand. He then ascended the Kara-kash
valley to its junction with the Karakorum route. He hired Kirghiz guides to
cross the Hindu-tash-Dawan at 17,750 feet. From there he reached the Pusha
valley previously known only from native reports. He then ascended the
Ak-tash-Dawan (15,250 feet) to view the narrow gorges of the Kara-kash valley
Ram Singh then used the difficult route north east over high ridges and glacier
fed streams to reach lower part of the Kara-kash River. He finally made it to
the triangulation station from 1900 at Ulughat-Dawan. From there he reached
Khotan where Stein had arrived from Kok-yar on 5 August. Stein had surveyed the
lower foothills. With it still being too hot in the desert Stein set out back
into the mountains for another attempt to reach the sources of the Yurung-kash
south of Karanghu-tagh. They reversed their route of 1900 up to Nissa. They did
not repeat the plane table surveying but did expand the photo-theodolite work.
South of Nissa they started the plane table again with less obstruction from
the local Taghliks.
They met with two glaciers, sources of the Nissa river. On August 19th Stein
climbed the larger Otrughul Glacier to 16,000 feet (much to the worried
objections of the Taghliks - see Desert Cathay.) He triangulated the
height of the source peak at 23,071 feet. He determined also that the Nissa
valley did not extend as far south as he had believed in 1900. From Nissa Stein
was still determined to reach the sources of the Yurung-kash. He had all along
carried a sketch that an explorer, Johnson, had made during a crossing from
Ladak northward in 1865. (Think he was spurred on by desire to surpass this
gentleman.) Again refer to Desert Cathay in which Stein records the
minor battle he had with the local Taghliks who refused not only to help carry
equipment further south but also to admit they knew any such route.) Undaunted,
Stein pushed his way using yaks into the Busat valley to more big glaciers
which he climbed to determine that the way south was indeed impassable. Another
attempt up another side valley was thwarted by the recalcitrant Taghliks. Here
in a footnote Stein writes much more about Johnson and about his own later
efforts to achieve success by coming from the southern side. Stein is pleased
to remark that his own explorations revealed significant discrepancies in
Johnson's map and report.
Stein next moved north to Pisha, while Ram Singh surveyed a new route to Khotan
further east (see map). On 15 September Stein started for excavations north and
north-east of Khotan. Ram Singh went to the foot of the main K'un-lun to survey
south of Keriya and continue his work from 1900 to the east. Having reached
Imamlar, Ram Singh picked up his triangulation points from 1900 and those of
Captain Deasy. He expanded the survey along the mountains as far east as
Charchan. Meanwhile Stein finished his archeological work and then surveyed a
new route to Niya which he reached on 14 October. Ram Singh arrived and was
able to triangulate on peaks in the K'un-lun not usually seen from that far
into the desert. They both proceeded north to the old Niya ruin explored in
1901. Ram Singh prepared detailed plans and area surveys while Stein supervised
archeological work. After completing this work they again separated. Ram Singh
returned south to the mountains while Stein went through the desert to the east
to Endere again. After more digging there he moved on to Charchan. He continued
plane table surveying from Charchan along the river of same name to
Lashkar-satma and then to Vash-shahri and Charkhlik. Stein moved north-eastward
while Ram Singh returned south to continue triangulation eastward. But the
severe cold exaggerated his rheumatism forcing him to cease triangulations and
revert to plane table surveying. On 6 December Stein left Charkhlik for Miran
where he found the remains of a fort and stupa. Ram Singh was suffering so
severely he had to ride one of the camels, thus reducing the total supply load
that could be carried to Lou-lan on the other 20 camels. They left much baggage
and artifacts at Abdal on the Tarim river and took 50 hired laborers north.
After walking for 7 days they reached Lou-lan right where Dr. Hedin's map
showed it would be.
From 18 to 28 December they excavated and surveyed the Lou-lan ruins. Lack of
time and Ram Singh's illness prevented extensive survey, which Stein had to
leave for the third expedition. Ram Singh took the main party back to Abdal
while Stein explored a different route further west to find the delta of the
Tarim river. He reached the Ilek branch of the river on 3 January 1907. There
he found a small ruined fort named Merdek-tim. Then he surveyed the confluence
of the Tarim and Charchan rivers were they finally disappear into marsh and
desert. From Charkhlik Stein returned to Miran to continue archeological work
until 11 February. From Abdal they both rode east for the 330 miles along the
shore of the dry salt basin of the Lop sea and then along the Su-lo- Ho to
Tun-huang. It was along the river that Stein found the western end of the Han
Dynasty limes, a series of watch towers and low wall.
Stein notes that the wall and its topographical location were fascinating from
both a military historical and a geographical view point. He spent two months
doing a detailed survey extending eastward for 160 miles to An-hsi. The details
are described in Desert Cathay and Serindia. Back at Tun-huang
Stein visited the small oasis to the south west at Nan-hu and then found the
ancient "Yang barrier' north of the village along the western length of
the Su-lo Ho. From the plane table sheets and more detailed sketches a special
map at half-inch scale was prepared for Serindia. (See map). Stein
mentions here his extended stay at Tun-huang to collect the manuscripts and
paintings from the famous 'caves'. He then moved to An-hsi to store all the
'loot' at the Yamen. He left that town on 24 June to explore and map the
Nan-shan. He reached the ruin of Ch'iao-tzu and then mapped into the high
mountains between the T'a-shih rivers and the Tsaidam plateau. They crossed the
Su-lo Ho in the mountains near Ch'ang-ma and then reached the Ming wall at
Chia-yu-kuan. At Su-chou he had great difficulty recruiting labors willing to
brave the dangers and mystery of the high Nan-shan. With strong edicts from
Chinese officials he managed to obtain enough support to depart on 28 July
across the Richthofen Range to an elevation of 13,500 feet. The party continued
into the wilderness without seeing another human for a month. They spent August
crossing the three main ranges with peaks above 18,000 feet riding for over 400
miles. He found the sources of all the rivers flowing down to Su-chou and
Kan-chou. They found ample sites on high ridges for the plane table in passes
over 15,000 feet elevation. He reached the source of the Su-lo-Ho in a marshy
basin over 13,000 feet elevation and two lakes - Khara-nor and Koko-nor amid
the 20,000 foot high peaks.
From there Stein rode across a high pass through the Richthofen Range to the
uppermost sources of the Kan-chou River and then down across a succession of
ridges where he could use the plane table to Kan-chou city. On September 3rd he
started back west - actually north-west along the Kan-chou River at first and
then to Su-chou and on to An-hsi. Along the way he made detours north of the
Su-chou River to find the location of the Han Dynasty wall.
Back at An-hsi Ram Singh had to start back to India as his rheumatism would not
stand another cold winter's work in the desert. Ram Singh managed to accomplish
plane table work through the foothills from An-hsi back to Khotan. Stein had
written to the Survey months before about this and was delighted that Sir
Sidney Burrand sent out the extremely experienced senior surveyor, Rai Lal
Singh who met the party at An-hsi. (When one reads of the varied locations from
Arabia to China in which Rai Lal Singh worked during his long career one gets
but a hint at the extent of the Indian government survey work).
Stein started from An-hsi on the 900 mile ride to Kara-shahr via Hami across
the stone desert of the Pei-shan hills. Stein surveyed the route, which was the
main caravan route of the Chinese from the start of their occupation of the
Tarim basin. (It today is still the route shown on maps for the main highway
between Su-chou and Turfan.) While Stein looked into various archeological
sites at Ara-tam and Lapchuk near Hami Lal Singh surveyed the slopes of the
Karlik-tagh. with its peaks up to 14,000 feet. They next spent 3 weeks in the
Turfan depression during which Stein focused mostly on archeology and Lal Singh
surveyed surveyed the wider general area up to the southern slopes of the
T'ien-shan. On December 1st Stein moved north on to Kara-shahr while Lal Singh
went south to survey more of the Kuruk-tagh to Singer and then back west along
a southern route to Korla. He returned to accomplish much more surveying of the
Kuruk-tagh in 1914.
At Kara-shahr Stein found more ruins to excavate including Buddhist temples at
Shorchuk. By January 1st 1908 the both were united at Korla. From there they
explored the low desert and marsh between the Inchike and Charchak Rivers in
futile search of 'ghost towns' steadfastly proclaimed to have been seen by
several local shepherds. Stein concluded this was another example of local folk
lore. But the surveys were useful. They then proceeded west to Kucha, Stein
moving along a northern track by the foothills of the T'ien-shan while Lal
Singh surveyed a southern track up the Inchike River basin via Shahyar.
After completing more archeological work around Kucha Stein got the idea to
cross the Taklamakan directly south to the area where the Keriya River
disappeared into the desert. In this account he down plays the dangers and
difficulties, perhaps because the whole adventure was rather a digression from
the main tasks. He mentions that Sven Hedin had accomplished a 'pioneer journey
of this sort in 1896. But he does not mention that Hedin had traveled north
from Keriya along the river to its end and then had only to continue directly
north to hit the Tarim river at some point. But Stein was going south from
Shahyar with a limited supply of ice in expectation of finding a narrow point
in the midst of the high sand dunes where an error of only a few miles would
miss the river entirely. (Throughout his expeditions the reader can catch a
subtle feeling that Stein was always competing with Hedin). Anyway, after 15
days they found the river's end and sure enough it had shifted far west of its
location when Hedin saw it and made a sketch map. Stein has to comment that
well anyway the journey was full of interesting discoveries and topographical
observations.
The next archeological site was Karadong reached from the river by a new desert
route north of Domoko. Again, Stein excavated and collected remains while Lal
Singh surveyed along the line of oases from Keriya to Khotan. More interesting
sites were excavated north of Khotan (very interesting places described in the
official report) but not specifically part of topographic surveying so omitted
here. Then in April Stein and company moved right back north again across the
desert, this time going along the Khotan River which is the united flow of both
Kara-kash and Yurung-kash rivers. He makes this excursion appear to be
business, so does not mention here his desire to meet again his old friend from
1900 who had been promoted to Tao-tai at Aksu. But along the river they did
find the very interesting Tibetan fort - Mazar-tagh - on a high bluff adjacent
to the river bed. From the Khotan River they crossed the Tarim River and rode
along the left bank of the Aksu river to the Chinese administrative
headquarters at Aksu, reaching it in early May.
At that point Stein and Lal Singh again went their separate ways. Stein
traveled north into Uch-Turfan valley and across part of the T'ien-shan to
Kelpin oasis. Then he returned southward across dry hills to the end of the
Kashgar River and then stopping at Tumshuk on the Aksu -Kashgar caravan route.
He accomplished plane table surveying of the hills toward Marl-bashi before the
heat drove him back to Khotan via the left bank of the Yarkand river to that
town and then along the main route east by 9 June. At Khotan Stein spent weeks
sorting and packing the large volume of artifacts for their trip to India.
Meanwhile Lal Singh surveyed the entire route from Aksu to Khotan in the
T'ien-shan at first and then through the mountains south to Kashgar and on to
Guma, Karghalik and Yarkand. Unfortunately the level indicator of the
theodolite prevented trigonometric triangulations, but the plane table work
provided new details of local conditions. Lal Singh then mapped the previously
missing areas in the K'un-lun between Kilian and the middle Kara-Kash River
above Pujiya. He also tied his survey into that accomplished by Ram Singh in
1906 south - up the Kara-kash to Kilian-kurgan.
(His detailed description here of routes taken is much easier to follow than
that in his official report in which he continues to comment on many other
topics at the same time. They were circuitous in the extreme.)
By the end of July Stein was able to send the huge convoy of camels bearing the
recovered artifacts south toward the Karakorum Pass. He had decided to attack
the Yurung-kash from the south. To do this he and Lal Singh set out eastward
from Khotan to go around the outer K'un-lun. Turning south they reached Polur
and crossed the K'un-lun to Seghiz-kol lake. Moving again westward with the
guidance of a local hunter they found the deep valley of the Zailik River
draining into the Yurung-kash. From the Zailik they could climb adjacent ridges
and make triangulations on the prominent peaks. They could see glaciers up to
21,000 feet at distances of 60 miles from the survey stations. At Zailik they
found some gold miners who agreed for a price to help with the baggage. They
pushed on down the Yurung-kash and over spurs and passes. Their survey station
at Mandar-kol-Dawan at 18,612 feet enabled them to establish triangulation
ties. After 7 more difficult marches from Zailik they reached the main gorge of
the Yurung-kash in a glacier basin at 16,000 feet. They then turned back
eastward to reach their supply depot at Ulugh-kol on 3 September. They then
crossed the main range of the K'un-lun via the Baba-Hatim Pass at 17,584 feet.
For three more days then moved back southwest to the plateau that holds the
source of the Keriya River at 17,000 feet. He showed that the glacier ridge
from which the Keriya flows is the same as that from which the Yurung-kash
flows in the other direction. From there they moved again back westward to
survey unexplored ground. They found enclosed lakes at elevations of 15,000 to
16,000 feet. By that time the weather was turning cold. Fodder was running out.
They could not spare more time for detailed survey work as they continued west.
The high plateau was very complex with steep ridges and broad valleys coming of
the very high crests of the K'un-lun. After 6 days of moving from the
Polur-Lanak-la route they reached the east end of a large salt lake. Continuing
north-west for 3 more days the found on September 17th traces of the forgotten
medieval route that Haji Habibullah had attempted to develop for direct
communication between Keriya and Ladak. This was the route Johnson had used
traveling north to Khotan in 1865. There were remaining cairns and other
evidences marking the route. They were able to sight peaks of the India survey.
On 18 September they reached the eastern valley of the Kara-kash. Stein and Lal
Singh continued to search for Johnson's route up side valleys blocked by
glacier. On 22 September they climbed a glacier looking for the watershed. At
19,000 feet they reached a crest from which they could see far to the north
enabling them to tie the survey to the points established in 1900 and 1906 from
the Khotan side. But instead of a view of tributaries of the Yurung-kash they
found one of the Kara-kash. The triangulated a peak at 23,071 feet that blocked
view of the Yurung-kash while forming part of the divide between the two
rivers.
It was while continuing with determination photo-theodolite and survey work in
the ice on top the glacier than Stein lost feeling in his feet, frostbite
ensued. From that point his priority was to be carried by litter over the
Karakorum to Leh which he reached on October 12. His personal narrative
describes the entire events graphically.
Meanwhile Lal Singh was left to supervise the huge caravan of relics that had
been waiting for them in the Kara-kash valley to cross the Karakorum. Stein
applauds the honors bestowed in Lal Singh with distinguished title of Rai
Bahadur and an award.
The survey sheets were converted into 94 maps by the Trigonometrical Survey
Office at Dehra Dun. Copies of these were distributed and then bound into a
volume of Serindia, when it was finally published. Stein rates these
maps as a significant improvement over the map that resulted from the first
expedition. However, his personal absence for 3 years in London working on the
archeological results prevented his direct editing of the maps. Maps were also
published in Ruins of Desert Cathay. One is of the entire area at a
scale of 1: 3,000,000 and there are two maps at a scale of 1:1,000,000 of the
mountain region of the K'un-lun south of Karghalik-Khotan and of the western
and central Nan-shan. (We have the series from both Serindia and
Ruins of Desert Cathay included here.)
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Section IV - Surveys of the Third Expedition 1913-15
Stein notes his continued recognition that the effort during the second
expedition nevertheless left many gaps in both mapping and archeological
discovery. He continued to press authorities for permission and funding to make
a third expedition. The support was forthcoming for a slightly longer tour. He
again chose a different route through the unexplored mountains of north-west
India (Pakistan).
(It is interesting to realize that as late as 1913 these territories remained
under control of independent tribal chiefs and up to that time no European had
been permitted entrance. See Kipling's Kim - Stein was a friend of
Kipling's parents).
Stein's request for the assistance of R. B. Lal Singh was granted. He also was
assigned two other surveyors, Mian Afrazgul Khan of the Khyber Rifles, and
Muhammad Yakub. Of course there were many other servants, cooks and handymen
who are mentioned in the memoirs but not here, since they were not surveyors.
They started on 31 July 1913 from Srinagar to the northwest through across the
Chilas and Indus rivers into the Dard chieftaincy of Darel and Tangir. With
protection provided by local chiefs they were able to survey and triangulate
points along the way. In his memoir Stein describes the trying conditions that
existed as he negotiated rocky gorges and crossed many very high passes. The
results are to be published separately. They crossed the Indus-Gilgit watershed
and the Darkot Pass to the Chitral river. They then crossed the Chhilinji pass
into Hunza and then crossed the Ming-taka pass into Sarikol on 7 September.
Proceeding back to Tashkurghan they resurveyed Sarikol. Continuing, they
crossed the Chichiklik pass toward Kashgar. After reaching the Tangitgar gorge
they split up to expand the survey. Lal Singh turned east to move more directly
to Yarkand and Khotan in order to complete the previous survey work in the
K'un-lun near Kapa. Afrazgul led the main caravan directly over the Ighiz-yar
and Yangi-hissar toward Kashgar while completing plane table survey as he went.
Meanwhile Stein and Muhammad Yakub surveyed a new route across the Merki pass
and down the Kara-tash river valley. Seasonal flooding from the massive
Muz-tagh-ata usually prevented passage through the narrow canyons. Stein
considered himself fortunate that late snows had prevented the usual melting
and runoff. He managed to cross the Buramsal pass at 14,940 feet in deep snow.
The passage through the narrow gorges was, nevertheless. difficult and
dangerous as they repeatedly crossed the raging river. They reached Kashgar on
21 September.
Stein again thanks Sir George Macartney for his hospitality and generous
assistance with all aspects of the critical preparations for the expedition.
Stein departed Kashgar on 9 October. He had his sights set on reaching Lou-lan
as quickly as possible to take advantage of the winter weather. His first idea
resulted in a failure. Thinking to make a shortcut to Khotan he started due
east from Kashgar to the low hill at Maral-bashi and from there directly to
Mazar-tagh on the Khotan River. His previous survey indicated the route was
practicable as the ridge at Mazar-tagh probably extended clear north-west to
Maral-bashi. He moved on east from Maral-bashi on 25 October. But after a few
days of tramping up and down over exceedingly high sand dunes and with water
running short, he had to turn back. He mentions in passing that Sven Hedin had
tried to march east into the desert there but the result was destruction of his
caravan. After 4 more days of extremely difficult movement and with the animals
nearing exhaustion, Stein realized the danger and reluctantly turned back.
Still, he insists on noting some new discoveries to justify the effort, namely
relics of Paleolithic settlements. The caravan returned to the Yarkand river
and turned north to survey along the left bank as far as Aksu area and from
there east to the Khotan river which provided a safe route south. Along that
river previously surveyed they again stopped at Mazar-tagh. Further new survey
was accomplished along the Kara-kash river. Stein stopped at Khotan to organize
the further expedition. He left again on 28 November for the 700 miles to
Lop-nor. The necessity for great speed Stein writes, apparently feeling the
need to excuse his following the normal and previously surveyed caravan route.
At Domoko he managed some more excavation and again visited Niya and Endere for
more archeological work. Along the way he recorded the changes in irrigation
and agriculture since 1906. While moving on to Charchan they found that the
clear winter air enabled them to triangulate on K'un-lun peaks far to the
south. They departed from Charchan on 31 December 1914 for 7 more day's ride
along the Charchan river. Along the way Stein learned about an aborted coup in
Charkhlik during which the Amban had been killed and then the rebels also
killed by Tungan troop. (See Innermostasia). The situation enabled him
to move on into the desert of Lop without interference. They remained in
Charkhlik 6 days during which R. B. Lal Singh rejoined the main group.
Stein describes Lal Singh's efforts. Between September and 31 December he had
surveyed the mountains beyond Tash-kurghan to Kapa and then extended Ram
Singh's control from 1906 into the K'un-lun for 5 degrees of longitude,
establishing triangulation points on high peaks. Then extreme cold and snow
forced him to lower elevations where he continued with plane table surveying
toward Tun-huang while continuing to record astronomical observations of
latitude and barometric observations of elevation. He continued as far east as
Nan-hu oasis and the turned north toward Miran.
Stein led the whole expedition from Charkhlik on 15 January 1914 once more to
Miran where they spent two weeks for further archeological digging. On 23
January Lal Singh started along the Tarim to Tikenlik where Abdurrahim (the
experienced desert hunter) again joined him for survey of the Tarim river bed
(the former Konche-darya). Muhammad Yakub performed a leveling survey of the
Su-lo-Ho basin to show its drainage into the marshes. On 1 February Stein
started out for Lou-lan with 35 men - his own permanent team and local
laborers. They had 30 camels to carry the heavy sacks of ice and food for a
month. Along the route then found more ancient relics amid numerous dry
channels of the ancient river that fed Lou-lan. Stein claimed to prove that the
river continued further east before turning south as the Tarim does now. And
that the area was a river delta of many streams rather than a lake. He arrived
at Lou-lan on 10 February. While he supervised the diggers he sent Afrazgul
Khan to explore and survey the areas north and northeast of the main Lou-lan
settlement. He found many more ruins along the former Chinese route north-east
toward Tun-huang. Among these he found a fully fortified garrison post (Stein
calls it 'castrum' as always using Roman terms). With the archeological
work completed and Lal Singh returned from survey of the Kuruk-tagh hills Stein
moved to the spring at Altmish-bulak to refresh the camels and collect ice and
fuel. They departed on 25 February. Lal Singh was sent northeast to survey
around the northern edge of the Lop salt sea while Stein searched for the
ancient Chinese track directly across the sea from Lou-lan toward the caravan
route between Tun-huang and Charkhlik. The dangerous and trying trek is
described in Innermostasia. (The resulting route is shown on the new
maps prepared for this book but not on the set of 94 maps created from the
Second Expedition and published in Serindia). They reached Kum-kuduk on
the Tun-huang caravan route on 6 March. Lal Singh arrived at the same time
after completing a much longer but perhaps easier route around the salt sea.
The following year Afrazgul Khan set out back from Turfan to complete the
survey around the western side of the Lop sea. On 7 March they continued survey
of the eastern side of the Lop Sea to the Kuruk-tagh. Muhammad Yakub joined at
that point, having completed a full leveling line of 60 miles eastward from
Kum-kuduk to Besh-tograk to show there was a drop of 250 feet in that distance,
proving Stein's theory that in ancient times the Su-lo Ho reached the Tarim
river basin. While Lal Singh and Muhammad Yakub expanded survey work along the
Su-lo-Ho, Stein returned to the line of the Han Dynasty wall to survey it
further eastward than in 1907. By the end of March they gathered for a rest
stop at Tun-huang. Then Stein visited the caves at Ch'ien-fo-tung again while
Lal Singh moved south into the western end of the Nan-shan mountains. Muhammad
Yakub went north to survey more of the Su-lo-Ho. Then they all met again at
An-hsi in mid April. Stein's search for and survey of the Han wall eastward
continued past An-hsi. They crossed the Su-lo-Ho and found the wall and towers
there were on the northern bank near the Wahg-shan-tzu hills that form the
northern side of the Kansu corridor. The Han wall continued east to the point
where the Su-lo-Ho flowing north from the Nan-shan turns sharply west. But the
wall continued north-eastward along a smaller stream to Ying-p'an close to the
Pei-shan hills.
Abandoning further search for the wall Stein and crew went to Su-chow town.
From there on 10 May they moved north along the bed of the united Su-chou and
Kan-chou rivers (then named the Etsin-gol) to Mao-mei oasis. In this area they
again found trace of the Han wall. Far to the north, along the dry Etsin-gol,
they found the massive ruin of Khara-khoto (the Etzina of Marco Polo). Stein
hired local Mongol labor to survey the fortress city while Lal Singh continued
to survey north to the end of the Etsin-gol on the Mongolian border. With the
heat of summer excavation in the desert ceased. Muhammad Yakub too the camels
northeast to graze while mapping another new area. Stein and Lal Singh returned
south past Mao-mei and turned east to survey more of the desert and foothills
north of the Kan-chou river. From Kao-t'ai they took separate routes to
Kan-chou city.
On 6 July they departed Kan-chou for more exploration into the high Nan-shan.
Stein wanted to complete the survey begun in 1907 by covering the area west of
that accomplished in the first survey and east of the western Nan-shan south of
Tun-huang. They reached a high plateau above 11,000 feet when Stein's horse
fell backward on his severely damaging the muscles in his left thigh. Rendered
fully out of commission he had to wait in camp while Lal Singh completed survey
as far as where the two branches of the Kan-chou unite, then followed the
larger branch further up surveying the area of To-lai-shan and Richthofen
Ranges. The Chinese again refused go further into the mountains for fear of
bandits (as they did in the second expedition also).
In mid-August Stein was carried back to Kan-chou where Lal Singh joined him.
They split again as Stein rode north-west along the Kan-chou river while Lal
Singh surveyed again deep into the Richthofen Range before turning north to met
Stein at Hsiang-p'u on 26 August. From there they returned to Mao-mei where
Muhammad Yakub brought the camels from the Etsin-gol. On September 2 they began
the 500 mile trek across the stony desert of the Pei-shan hills. Local 'guides'
again became lost but Stein's dead reckoning and compass work saw them through.
They pushed through the eastern extension of the T'ien-shan to the Bai village.
During October they rode west along the northern slopes of the T'ien-shan (in
Dzungaria) to Barkul and Guchen. After Guchen they surveyed Jimasa and then
turned south into the Turfan depression via the previously unsurveyed pass in
the Bogdo-ula range at 12,000 elevation. Lal Singh took the camels further east
across the Ku-ch'uan pass above Jam-bulak. Early in November they were all
again together at Kara-khoja (ancient capital) in the Turfan depression. The
heavy loaded camels also arrived directly from An-hsi led by Naik Shams Din.
And Muhammad Yakub arrived from his extended survey from Hami to Lapchuk and
then to Shona-nor and Pichan.
Stein remained around Turfan for fall and winter archeological work. With Shams
Din and Afraz-gul he surveyed and excavated many ruined locations until mid
February 1915. Muhammad Yakub created a large-scale plane table survey at 1 one
inch scale to record the numerous ancient remains on seven sheets. Both
Muhammad Yakub and Afraz-gul also completed large scale plans of each ancient
site including Kara-khoja and Yar-khoto.
On 12 November Lal Singh departed for a difficult triangulation survey of the
Kuruk-tagh to Singer and on to Altmish-bulak he oasis near Lou-lan. For this
extensive journey into the desert Lal Singh was aided by Abdurrahim with is
camels. Due to the usual dust haze they had to wait at Altmish-bulak and then
again at Astin-bulak for several weeks to obtain sights for triangulation
across the desert to peaks in the K'un-lun, which they accomplished on 23
December. Then with Abdurrahim as guide Lal Singh continued further north-east
along the Kuruk-tagh and then back west into the Turfan depression. On 4
February he moved again back into the Kuruk-tagh to complete a new survey from
Singer west to Korla. The difficulty of this project in spring sand storms kept
Lal Singh at work until reaching Korla in April.
Meanwhile, on 6 February Stein sent Afraz-gul Khan from Kara-khoja back east to
the Lop desert to complete more surveys around Lou-lan and along the eastern
edge of the Lop sea (noted above). Stein sent off a large caravan of relics to
Kashgar and continued surveying at Yar-khoto. He then also went south into the
Kurug-tagh leaving Muhammad Yakub to finish the one-inch survey of the Turfan
including survey of the shore of Lake Baghrash. Stein went to Singer where he
picked up one of the Abdurrahim's brothers as guide. From there he moved
westward to Shindi mapping more previously unexplored areas around Turfan. He
then continued south-eastwards back across gravel plateaus to Yardang-bulak
south of the Kuruk-tagh. In mid March he explored burial grounds and mapped the
remaining course of the dry Kuruk-darya.
Afraz-gul Khan joined him near Yardang-bulak after completing another arduous
survey into the desert. For that trek he was guided by another brother of
Abdurrahim from Altmish-bulak due south to Deghar. He then surveyed the ancient
remains north east of Lou-lan. After replenishing his ice supply he moved
south-east to the point where the Chinese route from Lou-lan crossed the Lop
salt basin and then surveyed the 'shore line' to the south west reaching the
point where the dying Tarim river disappears into marshes. Then back north he
want to survey the dry basin of the ancient Kuruk-darya, completing the survey
of that unexplored area west of Lou-lan. From there he rejoined Stein at
Yardang-bulak.
Together Stein and Afraz-gul Khan rode west along the dry bed of the
Kuruk-darya to Ying-p'an, where it was crossed by the Turfan-Lop route where
they explored another ruined fort that had guarded the main caravan route from
Lou-lan. The also surveyed the area in which the dry Kuruk-darya met the
Konche-darya. This was the area that during the 3rd century the still existing
Konch-darya to shift from the former bed of the afterwards dry Kuruk-darya that
had flowed further east to provide water to Lou-lan. From Ying-p'an Afraz-gul
Khan went to Tikenlik to survey the Lop - Kara-shahr route along the Tarim and
across the Inchike-darya to Kara-kum on the Konche-darya.
(In all this repeated survey work between Turfan and Lou-lan Stein was
determined to settle historical issues about Lou-lan and its abandonment. Stein
always combined survey work desired by his patrons in the Indian Government
with the historical issues he wanted to pursue.)
Afraz-gul Khan then surveyed the basin of the Konche-darya back west to Korla.
Stein reached the same place by riding along the foothills of the Kuruk-tagh.
Along this 100 mile stretch of now dry desert he found a line of watch towers
similar to and dating the same as those on the Tun-lung section of the Han
Dynasty wall. His point again was to show that the Han Chinese route west lay
through Lou-lan and then along the northern side of the Taklamakan in the
foothills of the T'ien shan.
By the end of April Stein met his other surveyors at Korla bringing their
separate survey lines to a common point. From Korla they again split into three
separate survey parties to complete three lines west to Kashgar. Lal Singh kept
to the north in the foothills of the T'ien-shan as far north as the snow would
allow. Muhammad Yakub went by a southern route with most of the camels across
the Konche and Inchike Rivers to the Tarim and then on toward Yarkand. Stein
focused on a route containing more archeological remains. That is the remaining
900 miles of the main ancient caravan route through the oases there. While he
stopped to accomplish archeological work Afraz-gul Khan would survey other
sites off the main route. They reached Kucha on 14 April where they stopped for
3 weeks of local exploration. Stein found that the difference between current
cultivated area and the much larger ancient area revealed by location of many
ruins showed that formerly the volume of water from the Kucha and Muz-art
rivers was much greater enabling a wider area for irrigation.
Lal Singh pressed north up the several routes to the crest of the T'ien-shan
from Yangi-hissar to the Kara-Dawan and from Kucha up toward the Tengri-han
mountain peak but could not reach the summit due to the continued depth of snow
even in April at high elevations. Eventually he rejoined Stein at Ak-su. Stein
reached that major town on 17 May along with Afraz-gul Khan. They remained two
days. From there Lal Singh again ventured into the T'ien-shan to survey new
areas through the hills to Kelpin and then Kara-jol to Kalta-yailak and
Kashgar. Meanwhile Stein rode rapidly (300 miles in 11 days) directly to
Kashgar via Maral-bashi, reaching the city on 31 May. Lal Singh arrived the
following week and Muhammad Yakub after another week. Stein was rushing to
prepare 80 heavy camel loads of his recovered artifacts for their transport
across the Karakorum to India. The surveyors kept busy preparing 157 new copies
of the plane table sheets made during the expedition. Stein departed from
Kashgar on 6 July 1915 with Lal Singh for a final survey of the mountains
between Muz-tagh-ata and Kashgar. Finally Lal Singh, while also in charge of
the large caravan, surveyed the route from Kok-yar up to the Karakorum pass
border with India. Stein departed into Russia to transit Russian Central Asia
to Persia and then through southeast Persia back to the border of India
(Pakistan today).
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Chapter II - The Regions Surveyed
In this chapter Stein writes a valuable description of the topography and
climate prevailing during his expeditions with comments also on previous
conditions. This description is a brief summary to accompany the new set of
maps which will include both the previous surveys and the new one of the Third
Expedition, which fill in many gaps.
Section I - The Tarim Basin and its Mountain Ramparts
Stein begins at the west edge, where naturally all three expeditions began. The
range separates the Pamirs from the Tarim basin and appears on map sheets 2 and
3 - an area from the head waters of the Kashgar River to the eastern end of the
Hindukush. From the Nuz-tagh-ata and Ulugh-art the rivers flowing east pass
through deep and narrow gorges of the Gez, Kara-tash and Tash-kurghan rivers to
reach the basin proper. This basin slopes gradually eastward as far as the Lop
salt sea. This entire drainage flows into the Tarim River which then dies out
in marshes of Lop-nor. The direct distance from Kashgar to the Lop sea is about
850 miles. It greatest width is between Kucha in the north and the K'un-lun
south of Niya, about 330 miles.
On the southern side the basin is bordered by the abrupt heights of the
K'un-lun. The mountain peaks are under perpetual snow with glaciers in the high
valleys behind. The peaks in the western part reach 23,000 feet elevation.
(maps 6, 9, 10, 14, 15) The Yarkand river breaks through on the western side
and joins the Tarim. The Khotan, Keriya and Charchan also break from the
K'un-lun but only the Khotan does not disappear in the desert. The high valleys
of the K'un-lun lack vegetation for cultivation. East of Keriya the mountain
chain is narrower and is backed to the south by the Tibetan plateau. The
northern edge of this mountain chain consists of a barren clay and stony glacis
some 40 miles wide.
On the northern side the basin is confined by the high T'ien-shan mountain
range which joins on the west with the Pamirs around Alai and the head waters
of the Kashgar River. The range extends eastward to near Korla where the
Konche- darya coming from Lake Baghrash enters the basin. (maps 24, 25) The
highest peak of the T'ien-shan, Tengri-khan, is north of Ak-su. (map 11) West
of Ak-su the chain has a lower series of ranges between it and the plain. (maps
4, 5, 7) East of Ak-su the mountains gradually become lower. (maps 16, 17, 20,
21). In comparison with the K'un-lun the T'ien-shan has greater moisture and
hence vegetation and it does not have the dry glacis but immediate areas for
cultivation. East of Korla are the desert uplands of the Kuruk-tagh border the
Tarim basin. (maps 25, 28, 29, 32) This region becomes more arid to the
east.
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Section II - The Taklamakan Desert
Stein divides the basin into four major regions. This desert forms the majority
of the area in the Tarim basin comprised of bare dunes of drift sand. The
desert is bordered on the west, north and east by narrow cultivated areas
created around the Tiznaf, Yarkand and Tarim rivers. Along the southern side
the border is along the northern edges of a string of oases from Karghalik to
Niya created by rivers from the K'un-lun. (maps 6, 9 , 14, 19). Further east
there are small areas of jungle near small rivers, (maps 19, 23) as far east as
Charchan on the Charchan river that flows east to Lop-nor. In earlier times the
southern rivers flowed further north into the desert enabling cultivation
around ancient sites now ruins.
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Section III - The Oases of the Tarim Basin
Between the mountains north, south and west and the desert there is the narrow
belt of oases. Those along the western and northern edge are some what
different from those along the southern border. The western and northern
cultivated areas between Yarkand and Kashgar to Korla contain more oases and
practically continuous cultivatable land in between. The result is that this
strip contains the chief east-west trade and military communications route
throughout historic times. South of the series of oases the Yarkand - Tarim
river flows west to east and is joined at various points by rivers flowing
south out of the T'ien-shan. There is no such river flowing parallel to the
mountain - desert line in the south. Interesting is the fact that the area
under cultivation along the north is not close to and on both sides of the
river. This is because the elevation difference between the western end and
eastern terminus of the Tarim is so slight that the river is continually
changing its main channels and flooding, making permanent cultivation extremely
difficult.
Besides the series of oases south of the T'ien-shan there is also the detached
oasis area around Kara-shahr, located in another small basin northeast of the
others, north of the western end of the Kuruk-tagh hills, where the
Konche-darya flows out of the central T'ien-shan to Lake Baghrash-kol, which
acts as a reservoir, and then flows past Korla on to join the Tarim. The
favorable cultivation potential at Kara-shahr made it an important center in
ancient times.
The southern strip from Karghalik to Lop is much different. There the steep
mountain range changes into a dry, stone, gravel area that falls gradually to
the desert. There is only one major oasis, Khotan, between two major rivers,
the Yurung-kash and Kara-kash. The oases are separated by desert. East of Niya
it is about 350 miles to the next small oasis, Vash-shahri and then Charchan.
Except Khotan the other oases are north of the dry gravel line where their
river meets the desert. These rivers are largely absorbed into the gravel plain
between their exit from the mountains and the desert line. At that point they
emerge as springs. The result is a curious double flood. In the spring time the
ice melts lower down and the springs flood in the annual "black
water". Then later in the summer after the snow and glaciers have melted
high in the mountains comes the second flood the 'white water' that flows above
ground in the river beds. In many places between these oases there is enough
water from springs to create a jungle and a few spring-fed wells. All the
southern oases except Khotan and Karghalik are 'terminal' that is at the point
where their river disappears into the desert sand. Stein found the ruins of
ancient villages north of these in the desert where in ancient times their
river still flowed. These oases are made possible not only by their river's
water but also by the fertile soil that the river brings.
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Section IV - The Terminal Depression of Lop and the Turfan
Basin
At its eastern end the Taklamakan ends in the Lop salt sea (Lop-nor). It was
formed from ancient times by the terminus of the rivers flowing east. Currently
the principal one is the Tarim river that ends in multiple channels and then
marshes and lagoons bordering on the dry salt basin. Along the south-eastern
edge flows the small Charchan river. The Tarim basin also includes the desert
areas south-east of the Charchan and north-east of the Tarim but west of the
next ranges of hills, the Kuruk-tagh north-east and the Altin-tagh south-east.
Other than the very small oases at Miran, Abdal, and Charkhlik the area is
uninhabited.
The Lop sea area has been of significant geographic and historical interest for
years. And the nature of the terminal area of the Tarim has been controversial.
Stein devoted much attention to this issue during his second and third
expeditions. He determined that the Lop sea extends about 170 miles from
south-west to north-east and has maximum width of 80 miles. The south-west
corner of the evaporated salt flat still receives some water from the Tarim
river. Around the time of Christ, when the Chinese established Lou-lan, the
Konche-darya (now the dry Kuruk-darya) still flowed east into the northern side
of the Lop salt flat. ( A modern map of China shows that again there is a river
system flowing parallel with the eastern flow of the Tarim but continuing
eastward right to Lou-lan and the northern side of the Lop-nor basin.) The
north-east wind has created erosion by scouring the clay terrain, especially
north and north-west of Lop up to the Kuruk-tagh leaving mesas and ridges with
steep ravines in between. Changes in the river flow and direction in the 3rd
century resulted in abandonment of Lou-lan. (maps 26, 29, 30)
The far 'shore' of the Lop sea is along the Kuruk-tagh. A narrower 'bay'
extends further east. The southern edge of the salt basin is near the foothills
of the Altin-tagh. Between them is a narrow desert corridor and the western end
of the Su-lo-Ho. Through this passage occasional caravans are still able to
move during the winter.
The deep depression of the Turfan oasis lies north of Lou-lan and Charkhlik and
east of the main range of the T'ien-shan - east of the break in that mountain
range leading north to Urumchi. It is close on the south side against the
extension of the T'ien-shan eastward and north of the Kuruk-tagh hills and
plateaus. (map 28). It is isolated from the Taklamakan and the main part of the
Tarim basin. At its deepest it reaches 1000 feet below sea level. The Turfan
basin as a whole is a small replica of the Tarim, with cultivated areas, desert
and salt flat. Much of the irrigation depends on a unique system of underground
tunnels dug for considerable distance that enable water to reach distant areas
without evaporation en route.
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Section V - The Su-lo-Ho Basin
The corridor though which the Su-lo-Ho flows from east to west is only 30-40
miles wide between the very high Nan-shan mountains to the south and the low
but desolate, dry Pei-shan to the north. It extends some 220 miles west to east
from its delta in marsh near Lop-nor eastward to where it flows north, breaking
through the Nan-shan in a narrow gorge and then turns sharply west, then
flowing through the Kara-nor lake. (maps 35, 38, 40) The Su-lo Ho is a major
river flowing out of glaciers far to the south. The Yu-men-hsien oasis is
located at the point where the river bends west. There is only one tributary
along this stretch, the Tang-ho or Tun-huang river flowing north past Tun-huang
oasis. Tun-huang is the only significant village in this entire corridor, which
resulted in its being a significant base for Chinese operations into the Tarim.
The corridor was the only access route west for the Chinese. For this reason
the emperors in the 2nd century B.C. constructed the defensive wall and towers
to protect the route to Lou-lan from the Huns. South and south-west of
Tun-huang there are huge sand dunes against the Nan-shan created by the same
north-east wind that erodes the corridor as is does the Tarim basin. Away from
the river banks the corridor is dry gravel and clay. East of the Su-lo Ho is
another interior basin.
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Section VI - From the Central Nan-shan to the Etsin-gol Basin
The road south-east from Yu-men-hsien passes through the famous Chia-yu-kuan
gate in the medieval Ming Great Wall. The first major town is Su-chou and
southeast of it is Kan-chou. (map 46). This is the area in which the Kan-chou
river flows north after coming out of the eastern Nan-shan. The southern area
includes the three great ranges of the Nan-shan - Richthofen, Alexander III and
with peaks over 18,000 feet elevation. The northern area includes the united
Su-chou and Pei-ta-Ho which form the Etsin gol flowing north to the Mongolian
border. The Central Nan-shan is wetter than the western and of course central
Asia. This can be seen by the extensive forests on the ridges and grazing areas
in some valleys. There is abundant snow and rain to provide for cultivation
along the Kan-chou river from the city northward. This region was the base for
Chinese expansion and commerce into Central Asia. Besides the two main cities
there are numerous smaller villages between them. But the northern area is much
different, more like Central Asia. The hills are barren and the Etsin gol flows
intermittently through desert to two small lakes. There are narrow cultivated
areas at the Mao-mei and Chin-t'a oases. The Etsin gol has always provided an
avenue for commerce and invasion from Mongolia. (map 44)
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Section VII - The Pei-shan and the easternmost T'ien-shan
The north-eastern area included in Stein's surveys contains the eastern end of
the T'ien-shan and the barren Pei-shan hills. Together with his assistants they
could only survey through this desolate region along several separate lines but
had to skip regions in between. The Pei-shan forms the barren, dry hill range
that borders the Su-lo Ho corridor on the north from the Etsin-gol west to join
the Kuruk-tagh. On the north-west it meets the foothills of the T'ien-shan. The
well known ancient caravan route from An-hsi to Hami crosses the Pei-shan. (And
today this is still the main highway from Kan-chou to Urumchi.) The other route
surveyed went from Mao-mei to near Karlik-tagh. (maps 37, 38, 40, 42), The
Pei-shan barely reach 8,000 feet elevation. The eastern extension of the
T'ien-shan extends for 300 miles from north of Turfan eastward with its main
range at 13,000 feet and then gradually becoming lower as it turns into plateau
and desert. The eastern section is called the Karlik-tagh from which short
streams and springs provide water for local cultivation near the foothills.
Hami is a significant oasis (map 34) providing provisions and rest along the
main route from An-hsi to the T'ien-shan oases. Further west are the oases of
Lapchuk - Kara-dobe. There is a 150 mile long gap of possible cultivation
between Kara-dobe and the Turfan basin at Chik-tam. Stein also surveyed
sections of the north eastern side of the T'ien-shan and noted the striking
difference in climate and therefor agriculture. This is part of Dzungaria the
home steppe of the nomads. The T'ien-shan peaks are high enough to retain
perpetual snow which creates the water which enables forests to grow on the
northern slope. The chief center here is Barkul near the lake of same name. On
the southern side cultivation is only possible close up to the foothills
supported by irrigation from the snow melt which appears from springs. The
oases toward the east, Tash-bulak and Khotun-tam are very small but Hami and
Kumul (map 34) are larger and important for their agricultural resources which
from ancient times have supported the main caravan route from An-hsi,
especially after the middle route via Lou-lan was abandoned.
Further west along the foothills are Lapchuk and Kara-dobe where more
cultivation is possible due to sub-soil drainage from the snow melt. But,
again, west of the foothills opposite Barkul there is again no drainage nor
cultivation for 150 miles to Chik-tam in the Turfan basin.
On the northern slopes of the T'ien-shan a completely different climate exists.
The wide Dzungaria plateau fill the expanse clear north to the Altai mountains.
The ample grazing available on this steppe has made it the home of many nomadic
groups from Huns to Mongols. At the eastern end, around Bai, there is the
typical bare gravel slope. But further west along the Karlik-tagh there is
extensive grazing. The snow melt from the higher peaks provides ample water for
Barkul. Again, west of Barkul the mountain range is lower, hence is without
perpetual snow. The result is much less water flowing north. Further west the
mountains again reach higher elevations dividing the Turfan basin from the
fertile area around Guchen. Cultivation there and at the ancient capital,
Pei-t'ing, does not depend on irrigation. The vastly different geographical
areas in the Turfan basin and around Guchen, separated by a narrow mountain
range with low passes, is quite striking.
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Chapter III - The Maps
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Section I - Compilation of Maps
The set of 47 maps was prepared, beginning in 1916, at Dehra Dun. However,
Stein notes, his absence in London to work on the archeological horde prevented
his close supervision of this stage of map preparation. His return to India in
1917 enabled him to resume such supervision. This project was huge, as shown by
the devotion of 15 draftsmen plus three senior supervisors to the effort during
1917-1919. Stein credits the personal attention of R. B. Lal Singh with
assurance of accuracy. The project was not completed until 1922.
The maps were based on the triangulations and astronomical determined latitudes
complied during the expeditions. In an appendix Major Mason has provided tables
of latitude, longitude and elevation for the survey stations. In Chapter 4
there is a complete list of latitudes and other information about the methods
used. The final compilations have also used information on latitudes and
longitudes obtained from the travels of other explorers. But the topographic
detail rests entirely on the plane table surveys from the three expeditions.
Where terrain was surveyed more than once, the later results were preferred.
Throughout Stein made use of his daily diary and detailed text descriptions of
the vegetation, water, soil type and similar subjects. Elevations were obtained
by use of mercurial, barometric, aneroid and hypsometric instruments. During
the second and third expeditions Stein also used the clinometer - theodolite -
to estimate elevations of points observed from known stations. Stein provides
the latitude data for each station with his text discussion of each individual
map sheet. For each map sheet Stein includes references to the relevant
chapters in each of his reports and personal narratives.
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Section II - Representation of Physical Details
Elevations have been shown by use of contour lines where sufficient data makes
that possible. Depiction of the snow line and differentiation of snow from
glaciers has been very difficult and of course on the far side of ranges seen
from only one side is very approximate. Permanent water forms are shown in
blue. Permanent river beds are shown by blue stipple, otherwise temporary
rivers are shown by blue lines along the banks. The lettering of names of water
features are also in blue. Depiction of salt crust and formation required use
of three new symbols - all in black. Drift sand without vegetation is shown in
brown. But sandy areas supporting some vegetation are shown in light yellow.
Living vegetation is shown in green, dead in black. Ancient ruins are shown in
red.
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Section III - Symbols and Local Names
Standard symbols used by the Survey of India are used for man-made objects
(other than ancient ruins). In Kansu practically all villages are walled. The
fort symbol is restricted to larger towns. No symbolic distinction is made
between different classes of roads. But those main routes marked by the Chinese
with 2-mile towers are shown in double red lines. The actual survey routes are
shown with series of black, blue or red crosses for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd
expeditions respectively, and camps are numbered. For the first and 2nd
expeditions only the camps occupied by Stein in person are shown. But for the
third expedition the camps used by Lal Sing, Muhammad Yakub and Afraz-gul Khan
are shown with different type faces. Various type faces are used for different
categories of town, villages, and other locations. Rendition of the proper
local name for villages and other places was attempted in Turki for Turkestan
and Chinese for Kansu and was always difficult.
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Chapter IV - Notes on Individual Map Sheets
In the notes for each map sheet Stein refers to his descriptions in
Serindia, Innermostasia, Ruins of Desert Cathay, Ruins of Khotan, The
Geographic Journal and Ancient Khotan, There is a list of locations
at which astronomical observations for latitude were taken in each map
sheet.
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Notes on Sheet # I Turug-art-dawan
This map is compiled from Lal Singh's survey from Kashgar north to the
Turug-art dawan (pass) on the Russian border.
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Notes on Sheet #2 Kashgar, Muz-tagh-ata
This map depicts a large area along the mountain range that contains the
Chinese-Russian border southwest of Kashgar. It connects the K'un-lun on the
south with the T'ien-shan on the north. Muz-tagh-ata is the massive (in both
elevation - 24,388 feet - and circumference) peak that dominates the area. The
oases at Kashgar, Opal and Tah-malik are shown as well. Separate parts of the
map were surveyed during each of the three expeditions. In addition information
was obtained from the Pamir Boundary Commission and Captain Deasy. Kashgar's
location is derived from several surveys as 39 degrees 28' 45" north
latitude and 75 degrees 58' east longitude. The location of the Kosh-bel pass
in the north is derived from Russian surveys. The map contains three regions,
high plateau and valleys on the western side of the south-north main range, the
much dryer valleys on the eastern side and the area north of the Gez defile
which has greater moisture. The various Stein followed over parts of this map
during his three expeditions are described in the several official reports and
personal memoirs.
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Notes on Sheet #3 Sarikol
This map is the southern part of the Taghdum-bash Pamir, south of Muz-tagh-ata,
and the main part of Sarikol, the area of China directly adjacent to the Wakhan
corridor to the west and to Russia to the northwest and Pakistan to the south.
The area was thoroughly surveyed (triangulated) by the Pamir Boundary
Commission in 1905 and Captain Deasy in 1896-8. Stein and his assistants made
detailed plane-table surveys south of Tash-kurghan in 1900 and 1913. North of
that town Rai Ram Singh completed triangulation in 1906. The map shows the
several routes taken by Stein's team in different years. The route to Yarkand
and Kashgar was surveyed in 1913.
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Notes on Sheet #4 Yai-dobe
This map was surveyed along two routes followed by R. B. Lal Singh. One in 1907
was from Uch-Turfan to the Taushkan river along the T'ien-shan to Terek-dawan.
The other was in 1915 and covered unexplored area from Kelpin via Kirghiz
grazing at Yai-dobe and Chong-kara-jol to Kalta-yailak. Since no fixed points
by astronomical observation were possible for this map it was fixed by
adjustment from the adjacent sheets.
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Notes on Sheet #5 Yangi-hissar, Yarkand
This map includes survey routes from all three expeditions. In 1900-01 the
route was mostly within and between Kashgar and Yarkand. The routes in 1906-08
included ground all along the Yarkand river as well as portions of the hill
area to the north-west and south-west corners of the map. The routes in 1913-15
were mostly from Kashgar to Maral-bashi and along the right bank of the Yarkand
river below Yarkand. The map is based on very well established stations at
Yarkand, Yangi-hissar, Kashgar, Maral-bashi and Karghalik. Ram Singh's plane
table work has been matched with surveys made by other explorers. The
topography is from Stein's personal observations. The area includes much
variety from well-cultivated tracts to small oases and areas of drift
sand.
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Notes on Sheet # 6 Karghalik, Kilian
This map shows the mountains south of the Karghalik - Khotan road as far south
as the upper reaches of the Yarkand river. This is the south-west corner fo the
Tarim basin where the K'un lun mountains join the Hindu Kush and Pamirs. The
surveys were accomplished in 1906 and 1908 plus survey along the road itself in
1900 and a survey completed in 1915 on the route south along the caravan route
from Kok-yar to the Karakorum pass along the Tiznaf river and headwaters of the
Yarkand river. Astronomical observations for latitude were accomplished at
Karghalik and Kok-yar. A longitude for Karghalik of 77 degrees 26' 30"
East. was interpolated from data from Captain Deasy and Colonel Trotter. The
map shows an approximate elevation of the snow line at 17,500 feet. The oasis
at Karghalik has extensive cultivated areas, but the other oases on this map
sheet are small and located where rivers from the K'un lun leave the mountains:
Kokyar, Yul-arik, Ushak-bashi, and Kilian. The high valleys contain sufficient
vegetation to support annual grazing.
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Notes on Sheet # 7 Ak-su, Uch-Turfan, Kelpin
This map is of the northern side of the Tarim basin and foothills of the
T'ien-shan. It covers the area in which the feeder rivers of the Ak-su flow
south from the mountains to the banks of the Yarkand-darya. The routes between
Ak-su and Uch-Turfan south to Kelpin and Tumshuk wee surveyed in spring of
1908. Those further south toward Maral-bashi were made in 1915. Lal Singh's
theodolite was damaged. Therefore the latitudes and longitudes shown are based
on work by Mr. C. Clementi. The longitude for Ak-su is established as 79
degrees 55' 25" East and latitude of 41 degrees 7' 57" North. The
large cultivated areas around Ak-su and Uch-Turfan are possible due to
extensive irrigation from the Taushkan and Kum-arik rivers which unite close to
Ak-su (Yangi-shahr). South of the area is a wide desert plain of bard clay and
gravel covered by sand
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Notes on Sheet # 8 Maral-bashi
This map is of the area adjacent to Maral-bashi and parts of the Yarkand river
with the Taklamakan desert to the south-east. Stein's route in 1908 was mostly
along the road from Tumshuk towards Yarkand. Additional areas were added from
surveys in 1914 and 1915. Mr. Clementi gives the latitude for Maral-bashi as 38
degrees 46' 44" North. The longitude is 78 degrees 15' 15" East based
on interpolation from Kashgar and Ak-su. The Marl-bashi oasis irrigation from
the Kashgar river is insufficient but it supplemented by extensive dikes and
reservoirs which create the largest irrigation system in the Tarim. Stein's
attempt to short cut his route to Khotan was blocked by the huge sand dunes
south of the Yarkand river.
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Notes on Sheet # 9 Khotan, Sanju
This map shows the large mountain area from the edge of the Taklamakan between
Guma and Khotan south into the main K'un-lun range and the upper Kara-kash
river valley. The routes surveyed there were almost all from the first and
second expeditions. Triangulations and astronomical observations of latitude in
the southern part were accomplished in 1900. The longitude for Khotan adopted
is 79 degrees 55' 51" East from a calculated mean of that obtained by
several surveyors. In turn the positions adopted for Khotan and Karghalik were
used as bases to fit the plane table surveys between those cities. The
elevation of the snow line ( 17,000) adopted is estimated from observations
during fall of 1900 and late summer of 1906. Although the elevation between the
Taklamakan desert and the high ranges of the K'un-lun are extreme the entire
area is extremely dry. The deep fertile soil around the oases has been created
by the combination of deposits from dust storms and from the rivers. High in
the mountains the valleys are so narrow that only limited areas contain
sufficient vegetation for grazing. Movement on a north-south axis through the
mountains is difficult due to the impassable nature of the river gorges.
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Notes on Sheet # 10 Karakorum, Khitai-Dawan
Most of the area of this map was surveyed during Stein's and Lal Singh's epic
trek east to west through the high plateau during the second expedition. The
remainder, along the narrow route south to the Karakorum pass was surveyed
again by Lal Singh during his movement of the camel caravan over that pass at
the conclusion of the third expedition. The map shows the ranges of the
K'un-lung around the massive peak Muz-tagh and the sources of the Yurung-kash
river that eluded Stein for years. It shows the interior basin of the western
Tibetan highland. The triangulation was based on three prominent peaks. The
snow line is estimated at 18,000 feet relying on results of the expedition of
Sir F. DeFilippi. The areas observed were naturally limited to those visible
from the routes traveled. They comprise three distinctive regions; completely
sterile basins of north-west Tibet, the main K'un-lun range with its deep
valleys draining northward into the Yurung-kash river, and the high open
plateaus between the Karakorum and Kara-kash river.
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Notes on Sheet # 11 Muz-art
This map contains the area around the route leading from the south to the
Muz-art pass in the main T'ien-shan mountains and a small part fo the outer
hills above Kara-bagh. The plane table survey was accomplished by R. B. Lal
Singh adjusted by the position of Tengri-khan Peak. But Lal Singh was unable to
reach the summit of the pass due to the heavy snow remaining in May.
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Notes on Sheet # 12 Kara-Yulghun, Bai
One route shown on this map was that between the end of the Khotan river to
Ak-su and then north-east in 1908. The others were surveyed in 1915 by Lal
Singh, Mian Afraz-gul, Muhammad Yakub and Stein. The locations are adjusted for
those adopted for Ak-su and Kucha and for the junction of the Ak-su and Yarkand
rivers. Dr. Hedin's observation of the latitude of that confluence was 40
degrees 28' 47" East. The longitude is the mean between values
interpolated between Kashgar and Korla and between Khotan and Ak-su. Dr. Hedin
also obtained latitudes for points along the Tarim river. The Bai basin between
the T'ien-shan main range and another eroded hill range to the south in in the
northern map section. The Muz-art river and its tributaries supply irrigation.
The area between Ak-su and Jam, receives water from the T'ien-shan. Between the
outer foothills and the Tarim river jungle belt the area is desert, but the
locations for some wells make movement between Kucha and Ak-su possible along
an ancient route. South of the Tarim river the Taklamakan desert takes over.
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Notes on Sheet # 13 Mazar-tagh, Kara-dong
The surveys for this map were at the terminal areas of the Khotan and Keriya
rivers in the Taklamakan. The first was explored during the second and third
expeditions and the second during the first and second expeditions. There were
numerous station at which astronomical observations for latitude were possible.
But for longitude the routes had to be adjusted for the accepted location of
Khotan and the Tarim-Ak-su river confluence and for those at Kucha and
Koehkar-oghil. Extended archeological surveys with surveyed plans were made at
Kara-dong and Mazar-tagh.
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Notes on Sheet # 14 Sampula, Chira, Keriya
This map lies directly west of map sheet # 19. The map covers the mostly
occupied ground between the Khotan and Keriya rivers along the cultivated
stretch plus the desert areas to the north that include the ruins of ancient
sites previously irrigated, and the gravel and stone plain stretching south to
the northern ridges of the K'un-lun mountains. There were numerous surveys
throughout the region during all three expeditions. Across the center lies the
ancient caravan route connecting the string of oases. The norther surveys were
made in conjunction with the archeological excavations of the ancient ruins. In
addition to the Stein survey work that of Captain Deasy was used for control.
There were numerous observations of latitude. Longitudes were interpolated from
those established for Khotan and Niya. On the Keriya river the longitude for
Kochkar-ughil was established from those at Keriya and Kucha and between Khotan
and Domoko-bazar and Dandan-uiliq. The routes along the Yurung-kash and
Kara-kash rivers were adjusted to the longitudes for Khitan and the Tarim-Ak-su
rivers. The snow-line has been estimated at 16,500 feet.
The map shows the typical three topographic zones; in the north is the
sand-dune desert with the two rivers cutting through in narrow but shifting
beds; in the center is the zone of subsoil drainage from the rivers at higher
elevations creating springs as they emerge from the gravel and clay to create a
jungle belt and irrigated agriculture. At the ends of this belt are the larger
oases of Yurung-kash, Sampula, Lop and Keriya. To the south is the barren plain
of gravel and clay up to the mountain range. In a few of the wider valleys
there is sufficient moisture and fertile soil to support summer
grazing.
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Notes on Sheet # 15 Yurung-kash and Keriya River Sources
This map is of the area east of that in map # 10. It was mostly surveyed by
Stein and Lal Singh during their trek from east to west across the high plateau
behind the norther ranges of the K'un-lun during August and September 1915. The
Muz-tagh and northern K'un-lun peaks were seen in 1900-10. Many of the
triangulated peaks were fixed by the Kashmir G. T. Survey in 1862 and by
Captain Deasy. The snow -line was estimated at 17,500 to 18,500 feet elevation.
During the second expedition Stein and Lal Singh circumvented the impassable
K'un-lun ranges south of Khotan by traveling east and around the worst areas
and then south and back west across the inner drainage-less plateau (ending on
map sheet 10). During this trek they located the sources of the Keriya and
Yurung-kash rivers. The area includes both wide basin plateaus and very deep
cut narrow river gorges. There are many glaciers.
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Notes on Sheet # 16 Kere-bazar, Bai
The survey for this small map was limited by atmospheric conditions that
blocked observation of distant mountains during Lal Singh's survey in April
1915. The survey was fitted to the location of Kucha and latitude of Kara-kul
and to the route lines from Kucha to Muz-art pass and between Kucha and Korla.
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Notes on Sheet # 17 Kucha
The map was compiled from surveys in 1908 and 1915, especially the latter
during which extensive archeological work was conducted there. Mian Afraz-gul
worked on plane table details while Lal Singh surveyed the outer slopes of the
T'ien-shan to the north. The routes south to Shahyar and further were mapped
during the daring expedition directly across the Taklamakan in January and
February of 1908. The astronomical latitude (41 degrees 42' 58" North )
results for Kucha agree closely with that of Mr. Clementi. Longitude (82
degrees 53' 30" East) was determined by taking the mean values and
interpolating between Kashgar and Korla and between Korla and Tengri-khan.
The map shows part of the north-western section of the Bai basin. There are
three other zones; north is the foot hill of the outermost spurs of the
T'ien-shan and the wide alluvial fan from the Muz-art and Kucha rivers which
create the oasis at Kucha. But this oasis was much larger in medieval times. To
the south is the wide basin of the Tarim river with its jungle and various
meandering beds that block northward movement of the Taklamakan sand dunes.
This desert forms the third zone. In the norther part of this the dunes are
oriented east to west parallel to the Tarim river but further south they are N.
N. E. to S. S. W. corresponding to the lie of the Keriya river.
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Notes on Sheet # 18 Keriya River End
Most of this map was compiled from Stein's trek in February 1908 north to south
across the Taklamakan and up the Keriya river. Both an old bed and the current
bed of the river were located. Latitudes were observed astronomically and
longitudes were adjusted from those at Koehkar-oghil and Kucha. The Niya site
was surveyed during archeological excavation work there.
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Notes on Sheet # 19 Niya
This map adjoins map # lying to its west. The northern section of this map
includes surveys conducted during all three expeditions. The important
archeological ruin served to generate repeated detailed plane table surveying.
The mountains far to the south were surveyed in the fall of 1906 as Rai Ram
Singh was completing triangulations along the K'un-lun. In addition the surveys
by Captain Deasy were incorporated. Niya-bazar itself was fixed in 1906 at
Latitude 37 degrees 3' 34" East and Longitude 82 degrees 45' 32"
North. The caravan route from Niya east to Endere and Charchan was checked by
the position of Kalasti. Since no reliable observations of the actual snow-line
were made the height at 17,500 feet is a guess.
The archeological discoveries at Niya and Endere generate questions about the
historical geography of the region. it is divided into the same three
topographic zones from north to south; desert, jungle belt and gravel plain up
to the mountain spurs. In the northern desert belt are the terminals of the
Niya, Yartungaz and Endere rivers. The first and third of these rivers once
supported irrigated oases now ruins in the desert. There is only one small
oasis in the jungle belt, at Niya-bazar. The mountains have a few valleys in
which small hamlets manage to exist.
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Notes on Sheet # 20 Kara-dawan, Kara-shahr River
The map includes part of the wide valley of the Kara-shahr river near its
eastern end and a part of the outer range of the T'ien-shan that divides it
from the Tarim basin. The range was surveyed by Lal Singh along its southern
edge in 1915 (see map #21). The south-eastern corner was surveyed by Stein in
1907. The plane-table survey was adjusted to the positions for Kara-shahr,
Korla and Bugur (maps 21 and 24). Lal Singh noted pine forest on the southern
slopes of the mountain range at elevations above 8000 feet.
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Notes on Sheet # 21 Bugur, Korla
This area is similar to that in map 49 of Serindia. The map contains
part of the north-eastern corner of the Tarim basin. The survey from Korla to
the Inchike-darya was accomplished in 1908 and the others were north and south
of this in 1915. Unfortunately the map was compiled before it was realized that
Lal Singh's triangulations based on observations of the K'un-lun across the
Taklamakan were wrong. This requires that the location shown for Korla be moved
15' 30" East , but with the same latitude. The longitude for Korla in
Serindia map 40 is correct. Again, Mr. Clementi's survey and that of
Sven Hedin were incorporated. The longitudes along the Inchike-darya were
adjusted for those at Peres and Shahyar. The Korla oasis is significant due to
its extensive irrigation water from the Konche-darya and the reservoir of the
Baghrash lake (sheet # 25). The large Bugur oasis appears to benefit from the
Kizil river bringing water from the snow of the T'ien-shan.
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Notes on Sheet # 22 Charchan
The map is of the south-east corner of the Tarim basin. The south-eastern
corner of the map shows the area about the Charchan oasis and the Charchan
river east. The survey routes here were the same west of Charchan during both
expeditions but in 1906 and 1913 along opposite banks of the river to the east.
On December 28, 1913 the exceptionally clear weather enabled Stein to
triangulate the position of Kalasti (camp 116) from observations of four peaks
in the K'un-lun previously established (Serindia map 46).
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Notes on Sheet # 23 Kapa, Achchan
The map contains a part of the northern main K'un-lun range surveyed in 1906
and again in 1915 from the lower hills past the gold pits at Molcha and Kap to
the Charchan river and also the ground crossed in both years along the desert
route between the Endere river and Charchan. The K'un-lun range is based on the
triangulation accomplished in 1906 by Rai Ram Singh and continued eastwards
from Ushlung by R. B. Lal Singh in 1913. The desert route was adjusted from the
positions of Niya and Kalasti. The time of the survey, late fall prevented
accurate estimate of the elevation of the snow-line, but a guess is at 17,000
to 17,500 feet. The desert route is along the southern edge of the sand belt
that contains some scrubby jungle and tamarisk-cones fed by underground
drainage. Further south and higher in elevations the piedmont gravel and
various temporary flood beds but other wise waterless.
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Notes on Sheet # 24 Kara-shahr
The map shows along its southern edge the survey route along the main road from
east to west through the Kara-shahr basin accomplished in 1907 and again in
1915. The map was adjusted for positions determined by Turfan (map 28) and
Korla (map 21). The longitudes are in error due to the error at Korla (15'
30" too far west). (notes sheet 21). The location of Kara-shahr is also
too far west. The latitudes come from those determined by Mr. Clementi and
various Russian explorers. Except for the area east and north-east of Kumush
the area is within the drainage from Baghrash lake.
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Notes on Sheet # 25 Konche-darya
The map contains the surveys made north and south of the western end of the
Kuruk-tagh hills and along part of the course of the Tarim and Konche-darya
rivers lying south of it. The first mentioned was accomplished during the
second and third expeditions and the second only during 1914-15. The traverses
were adjusted to the locations determined for Korla and Altmish-bulak before
the error in Lal Singh's triangulation was discovered. Thus all locations shown
are too far west of their actual positions. The tables in Appendix A provide
the correct positions based on Clementi's chronometrically determined value of
Korla. The latitudes are given in a list with these notes. The map has three
areas, the south-western corner of the Kara-shahr basin; The barren eroded
hills in the north-east and to the south the wide belt of river scrub and
jungle on the beds of the Inchike-darya, Tarim and Konche-darya rivers. To the
west this river belt is bordered by the sands of the Taklamakan. On the east it
is near the Lop desert. The Lop area divides the ancient route of the
Konche-darya towards Lou-lan now the bed of the Kuruk-darya and the current
(1915) course of the Konche-darya south-eastward.
(Stein placed great significance in the shift of the Konche-darya from its
ancient flow further east to provide water for Lou-lan and its shift in turning
south. But modern maps of the Tarim Basin now show the river deltas flowing
east as before into the northern edge of the Lop sea.)
The oases at Kara-kum and Tikenlik have been created by the Chinese
administration to improve communication routes along the northern and southern
sides of the Tarim. (Again, modern maps now show a highway along this route.)
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Notes on Sheet # 26 Vash-shahri
The map was compiled from surveys during the second and third expeditions. The
mountains to the south are based on Lal Singh's triangulations of 1913 and Ram
Singh's survey of 1906. The plane table survey along the Charchan-Charkhlik
route was done by Stein in 1906 and again in 1913. Locations were adjusted to
the position of Charkhlik (sheet 30). The southern part of the map shows the
outer ridges of the K'un-lun and dry valleys. The modern village at Vash-shahri
is located on the site of an ancient ruin.
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Notes on Sheet # 27 Khadalik
The north-west corner of this map shows the spurs of the main K'un-lun
mountains north of the Charchan river gorge to a portion of the gravel glacis
near the gold pits at Khadalik. Triangulation is based on Lal Singh's survey in
1913. The estimate for the elevation of the snow line is probably too
low.
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Notes on Sheet # 28 Turfan
The map contains the survey route through the central and south-western part as
surveyed in 1907. Much of this was again followed in 1914-15. At that time a
large part of the entire Turfan depression was surveyed at the detailed scale
of 1 mile to the inch. Thus much of the detail shown here is from the third
expedition. The locations were adjusted for the position of Yangi-shahr near
the map center with adjusted longitude of 89 degrees 6' 30" East. The
latitude 42 degrees 55' 39" East. The longitude values for the routes
south to Singer and Altmish-bulak are effected by the error previously
described for Korla. The details of the Turfan basin were taken from Muhammad
Yakub's detailed work of December 1914. The survey base line was measured at
Kara-khoja. Of special interest is the great depth below sea level of part of
this basin. The elevations were measured by mercurial barometer. Kara-khoja
camp 242 was at -110 feet; Kara-khoja camp 242 at -140 feet; Sak-karez Deghar
camp 275 at -630 feet; Camp 276 at - 980 feet.
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Notes on Sheet # 29 Singer, Lou-lan
The map contains the area around ancient Lou-lan and the Kuruk-tagh mountains
to the north in which Singer is in a valley. The surveys were mostly
accomplished during the third expedition. But the routes in the desert from the
Lou-lan site ruins to the Tarim river were followed in 1906-08 as was the route
from Turfan to Singer and Korla. The detailed exploration and archeological
work at Lou-lan shown in the south-eastern quarter of the map was done during
both second and third expeditions. The detailed plane table results were
adjusted for the position of Altmish-bulak and Korla, thus again containing the
error from Lal Singh's triangulation on the K'un-lun.
The map is of an almost waterless area including the decaying Kuruk-tagh ridge
west to east in the north. Singer, the only inhabited place in the region, is
located close to this. The mountains are divided by wide plateaus and dry, salt
encrusted basins. To the west the mountain chain reaches its highest extend. To
the east of Singer there are a few saline springs. From the foot of the
mountain chain a gravel plain descends southward in a waterless desert of
drifting sand and clay mesas being eroded by the relentless north-east wind.
This area is bordered on the west and south by the Tarim river and its marshy
delta. On the east it is bordered by the salt of the Lop sea. In ancient times
the Kuruk-darya flowed east to bring some water to Lou-lan. This enabled the
Chinese to establish their frontier garrison there to support caravans from
Tun-huang..
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Notes on Sheet # 30 Lop-nor
This map lies south of # 29. It includes the terminal delta and marshes of the
Tarim in the region called Lop-nor. Further south the map extends across desert
ground to the northern foothills of the K'un-lun mountains. The routes in the
area were used during the second and third expeditions. The peaks of the
K'un-lun were mis-identfied by Lal Singh in his 1913 triangulation resulting in
the locations of some points listed with longitude values too far east, in the
case of Toghrak-chap as much as 1 minute and increasing to 5' 10" for Peak
1/75, the easternmost of the triangulation stations. The longitude determined
for Charkhlik (88 degrees 2' 10") is the mean between Dr. Hedin's value
and that of Lal Singh The longitude for Miran and Abdal were derived from plane
table traverses to the Miran river. The routes leading north to Lou-lan and
Tikenlik are adjusted to the other locations. The southern shore of the Lop-nor
is adjusted to the location of Kum-kuduk (sheet # 32). .
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Notes on Sheet # 31 Pichan, Chik-tam
The map includes areas on both slopes of the T'ien-shan and part of the western
part of the Turfan basin with the desert east and south of it. The high road
from Hami to Turfan was traversed in 1907. The other routes were surveyed in
1914-15. The latitude determined for Turfan is 342 degrees 30'. The traverse
lines between Turfan , Hami and Barkul used latitude observations shown in the
text. These values are in close agreement with those of Dr. Vaillant from 1908.
The route at Donglik at its northern end intersected an old desert track from
the Hami river. A northern route that M. Muhammad Yakub surveyed from the same
basin to Chick-tam is no longer practical. In addition to these desert plateaus
the map also shows the small portion of the Turfan basin around Pichan and
Chik-tam. These oases, like the others, receive water from the Karezes which
catch the subsoil drainage from the eastern T'ien-shan. (Karezes are man-made
tunnels similar those formerly also in Persia prior to the Mongol conquest.) To
the east of Chick-tam the crest line of the mountains falls considerably and
receives even less moisture. To the west there are conifer forests on the
northern slope of the range. The southern slope is far more barren. The Chinese
main route along the foot is made possible only by rare springs and wells with
some bits of vegetation in small basins.
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Notes on Sheet # 32 Ancient Lop Lake Bed
The map shows the Lop salt sea. The route along the southern 'shore' was used
in 1907. The other routes date from the third expedition. Those in the northern
half were made by Lal Singh in winter of 1915. Those further south were made by
Stein and Mian Afraz-gul. In the south-east corner is Kum-kuduk on the caravan
route between Tun-huang and Charkhlik. its position was established by
adjusting traverses from An-hsi (map 38) and Miran (map 30). The longitude was
determined to be 91 degrees 55' 30" East. This is close to the number
shown on map 67 of Serindia. The correction for latitude was made from
observations in 1914. The traverses to Kum-kuduk from Altmish-bulak and the
ruins north-east of the Lou-lan ruin were adjusted on the positions adopted for
these two points as well as on Kum-kuduk. (This was the dangerous route Stein
explored during the winter by riding directly south-east across the Lop salt
sea.) The traverse Lal Singh made from Yetim-bulak north through unexplored
parts of the Kuruk-tagh was adjusted to the adopted positions of Altmish-bulak
and Deghar. Latitude observations were made during this survey.
The area in this map has two distinct regions. In the north there are the low
desert ranges and plateaus of the Kuruk-tagh. In the south lies the great salt
basin of the Lop sea. Both regions are empty except for seasonal movement of
wild camels. There is no drinkable water outside the wells at Kum-kuduk in this
entire region and no living vegetation except along the southern shore. This
part of the Kuruk-tagh has never seen humans except for occasional hunters in
the western parts. But across the salt sea and along the barren shore of gravel
and eroded clay there was the Chinese caravan route from the 2nd century B.C.
This route was finally closed some 4 centuries later by the increasing
desiccation of the area. The caravan route along the southern 'shore' of the
Lop sea was long out of use as well but now can be used during winter. .
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Notes on Sheet # 33 Lowaza, Bash-Kurghan
This map shows the area between Tun-huang and Lop region. The two survey routes
were used during both the second and third expeditions. Numerous latitude
observations were taken. The survey routes were adjusted for the locations of
Miran and An-hsi. But Miran is located about 2 minutes west of that shown in
sheet # 30. The route shown in the northwest part of the map is part of the old
caravan route along the southern shore of the Lop sea. All the springs along
this route are saline and can be used only during the winter when ice forms at
the top. Otherwise the caravan route follows the northern slopes of the
Altun-tagh and eastern end of the K'un-lun. (See a modern map that shows the
same route today.) The northern part of the Altun-tagh, which was surveyed,
does not reach the snow line further south and it extremely arid. Between the
Altun-tagh and the Lop sea is an even dryer area of sand dunes.
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Notes on Sheet # 34 Barkul, Hami
This map shows an area north of the T'ien-shan as well as south. The surveys
were accomplished in fall of 1907 and during the third expedition. One route is
along the main caravan route between Hami or Kumul oasis. It was adjusted for
the locations at Pichan and An-hsi. Hami surveyed latitude is 93 degrees 26'
but that is east of Clementi's chronometric value of 93 degrees 18' 16".
The location shown for Barkul was adjusted for Ku-ch'eng-tzu and Turfan. The
accepted longitude is 92 degrees, 51' 20" East. The snow line shown at
12,000 feet is a guess. Hami has been a main station on the Chinese route west
since the first and remains so today. The map shows two distinct regions
divided by the eastern extension of the T'ien-shan. On the north are the
plateaus and open valleys of Dzungaria where there is sufficient rainfall for
grazing and agriculture in some areas. This is the historical homeland of the
nomads. There is conifer forest on the northern slopes. The southern side of
the range is dry. There is a gravel slope south of and below the mountains. The
small oases along the foot of the gravel plain make use of sub-soil drainage.
All the streams end in the basin at Shona-nor. South of the line of oases the
ground continues with dry gravel and stony wastes.
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Notes on Sheet # 35 Su-lo- Ho Delta
This map depicts the area along the eastern part of the desert route between
the Lop region and Tun-huang and the area of the terminal course and marsh
basin of the Su-lo Ho. The caravan track from Tun-huang to the southern shore
of the dry Lop sea bed was used in both 1907 and 1914. The numerous surveys
north and south were made the same years. The survey was fitted to positions
accepted for Miran and An-hsi. The longitude for Besh-Toghrak measured from
Miran and from Altmish-bulak agree within a few minutes. The mean then is 92
degrees, 46' 40" East, about 2 minutes short of the longitude shown on map
70 in the Serindia set compiled in 1906-08. One must also adjust for the
error mentioned for map sheet 30 resulting from Lal Singh's mistake when
sighting on the K'un-lun. In addition to plane table and theodolite survey a
level survey was run from a point north of Kum-kuduk to the western edge of the
ancient basin showing strings fo mesas and wet sand to the east of
Besh-Toghrak. The heights shown along this line of levelling are based on this
special survey. The height of Besh-Toghrak at 2,340 feet is derived from the
mean of several observations and was used as the base datum point. The recorded
data is shown in appendix C. The result indicates a continuously descending
slope for this part of the Su-lo Ho river bed.
The topography of the area south of the Su-lo Ho and along the ancient Chinese
border wall and on its western flank has been described in Desert Cathay
and in Serindia. This area has special geographic interest. It comprises
a wide trough of the terminal course of the Su-lo Ho that separates it from the
southern foothills of the Kuruk-tagh to the north and the gravel plain from the
eastern end of the Altin-tagh to the south. Just north of the marsh in which
the Su-lo-Ho ends are other dry river beds and mesas. West of the basin the
trough continues in a valley down from Besh-Toghrak to the eastern bay of the
dried Lop sea bed. This shows that at one time the Su-lo Ho reached the Lop
sea. This accounts for the ancient Chinese use of this area and for the desert
vegetation remaining there today. Along the course of the Su-lo Ho and the line
of spring-fed marshes there is abundant vegetation. But the lay of the land
prevents cultivation now and also prevented it when the Han wall was built.
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Notes on Sheet # 36 Khanambal or Anambar
This map shows the outer ranges of the Altin-tagh and the descending table land
to the Su-lo-Ho. It was surveyed by following the southern caravan route
through the foothills between Tun-huang and the Lop area which Rai Ram Singh
used in 1907 and R. B. Lal Singh used again in 1913. The locations along the
route have been adjusted for the positions of Miran and Nan-hu. The
observations for latitude of Khanambal (39 degrees 15' 36" North) and
Su-mi-t'ou (39 degrees 49' 32" East) shown in map 75 of the Serindia
series are confirmed within a minute.
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Notes on Sheet # 37 Karlik-tagh
This map shows the eastern end of the T'ien-shan and the region east to the
Pei-shan desert. The route west from An-hsi to Hami and some other areas were
surveyed in 1907. The southern slopes of the Karlik-tagh were surveyed during
the third expedition. The locations determined for Barkul, Hami, An-hsi and
Su-chou on other maps were used plus latitude observations for places on this
map. Several chronometrically determined longitudes made by other travelers
were incorporated. The snow line at 12,000 feet is a guess because the
observations were made in October when fresh snow had already fallen. The map
includes a section of the ancient Chinese main route from An-hsi to Hami
leading to the narrow area between the Taklamakan and the T'ien-shan. Along the
eastern section of the T'ien-shan it forms a great divide between the more
moist plain of Dzungaria to the north of the high perpetually snow-covered
peaks and the dry Tarim basin to the south. Toward its eastern end the
T'ien-shan becomes lower and lower and finally merges into the plains of
Mongolia. Along this section the land even to the north becomes dryer. The
southern slope of the Karlik-tagh is barren throughout. Only were there is some
sub-soil drainage can irrigation of the fertile soil be attempted. The southern
gravel glacis descends into a trough depression which separates it from the
uplands of the Pei-shan. This map shows a northern ridge that enters the map in
its south-east corner. This range is crossed by the Shuang-ch'uan-tzu pass.
Further west is the caravan road between K'u-shui and Yen-tun.
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Notes on Sheet # 38 Tun-huang, An-hsi
The northern part of this map contains the desert ranges and plateaus of the
Pei-shan. The survey of this area was confined to the ground adjacent to the
Chinese track between An-hsi and Hami which Stein followed in 1907. A few hills
to the north east and south west were observed from the same route during the
third expedition. The southern part of the map includes the wide valley of the
lower Su-lo Ho and the foot-hills of the western end of the Nan-shan mountains.
Along the south side of the Su-lo Ho Stein surveyed the Han wall and towers in
both 1907 and 1914. The traverses were adjusted for the position of An-hsi at
latitude 40 degrees 31' 38" East and longitude 95 degrees 57' North. This
longitude differs from that shown on map 81 of the Serindia series. But
the longitude for Tun-huang at 94 degrees 47 minutes East is affected by the
incorrect adjustment from Lal Singh's triangulation. The maximum error along
this section is 5' 10" too far east. Mr. Clementi's chronometric longitude
value for An-hsi is 95 degrees 47' 20.6" East. Stein provides results from
several other surveyors. He also refers to his descriptions in Desert
Cathay and Serindia.
The map contains three distinctive regions. On the north the surveyed route
towards Hami was first opened by the Chinese in 73 A. D. and has continued to
be the main route west. It crosses a succession of decayed hill ranges of the
Central Pei-shan. The low southern-most range of the Pei-shan to the west
merges with an outer range of the Kuruk-tagh. Between this and the foothills of
the Nan-shan to the south lies the depression of the Su-lo Ho river valley. The
area west of Tun-huang is similar to the delta and basin of the Su-lo Ho seen
on map # 35. The water supply from the Tang-Ho (the only tributary of the Su-lo
Ho) provides the extensive irrigation for the Tun-huang oasis. The unique
resources of this oasis provided the Chinese with the essential local logistic
(food) support for caravans using the Lop desert route. This made the defensive
Han wall important. East of Tun-huang the flat bottom of the Su-lo ho valley
narrows and where the Hami road begins it is occupied by the An-hsi oasis
(named Kua-chou in ancient Chinese). To the south on the map are seen the
barren foothills of the Nan-shan. Its northern outer chain is immediately south
of Tun-huang and covered with drift sand, hence the ancient name Sha-chou 'city
of sands'. Behind the outer line of hills there is a wide plateau filled with
gravel which slopes up toward the well-defined second low range in which there
is another oasis at Tung-pa-t'u.
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Notes on Sheet # 39 Nan-hu
This map shows the very small oasis at Nan-hu south-west of Tun-huang. The map
shows the western end of the Nan-shan which my join the eastern end of the
Altin-tagh. The area around Nan-hu was explored during the second expedition in
1907 as was the high plateau above Shih-pao-ch'eng. Lal Singh surveyed part of
the area in 1914. Nan-hu lies at the south end of the Chinese "Yang
barrier' (north-south) which defended the region south of the end of the Han
wall (east-west). The deep valley of the Tang-Ho divides the area into two
sections. The western side is a great gravel plane but contains a basin with
fertile loess soil and irrigation from the subsoil drainage which enables some
cultivation. To the west and south of Nan-hu the gravel glacis and low ridges
are overrun by high sand dunes. Further south are two ranges shown on map 36.
In the eastern part there are three chains of which the southern-most and
highest forms the outer rim of the mountain wall behind which is the
drainage-less plateau of Makhai and Tsaidam. To the east this chain joins
another that continues east to the middle course of the Su-lo Ho and Central
Nan-shan mountains. The southern most range sinks down with gentle slopes of
gravel to the outer chain of dune covered foothills south of
Tun-huang.
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Notes on Sheet # 40 Yu-men-hsien
The map is directly adjacent to the east of map 38 and its area is divided in a
similar way into two zones. The northern, much larger, sone was surveyed in
1914 along a single route. It contains desert ranges and plateau like valleys
of the Pei-shan. To the south there is the eastern portion of the lower Su-lo
Ho and the adjoining depression of Hua-hai-tzu. The former is flanked on the
south by the outer ridges of the Nan-shan and the latter by the end of the
hills continuing north-west to Su-chou. The southern region was surveyed from
different routes during both the second and third expeditions. The plane-table
work was adjusted for the routes in the southern zone on locations accepted for
An-hsi and Su-chou on maps 38 and 43, and for the route in the northern zone on
those of Su-chou and Barkul on sheet 34. Latitudes were observed for 6 points.
The area in the south-western corner of the sheet was explored by Stein in
summer of 1907 to visit the ruined sites near Ch-iao-tzu and Wan -fo-hsin as
described in Desert Cathay. The historic Chinese caravan route from
Su-chou past Yu-men-hsien to An-hsi and then Tun-huang appears. The Han wall
was built to protect this caravan route. It crossed the Su-lo ho from south to
north at the Wan g-shan-tzu ridge and from there lay along the right bank of
the river as far as Shih-erh-tun near the river's sharp bend to the south. This
section of the Han wall and its continuation further east to Hua-hai-tzu was
surveyed in 1914.
The previously unexplored area in the Pei-shan mapped from Mao-mei (on map #
42) to the eastern end of the T'ien-shan is similar to the western area
previously surveyed which is crossed by the An-hsi to Hami main road (mentioned
in notes for map 38). This map shows the barren ranges oriented from east to
west north of Ming-shui to Lo-t'o-ching. On their route north of camps 212 and
209 they found the highest pass elevations but without significantly higher
ridges on either side. The drainage appeared to be to the east rather than to
the west as found by other explorers. The chain of hills shown on the map
extending north from the Su-lo Ho bend and the Hua-hai-tzu depression evidently
represent the firth and southern most Pei-shan range.
The zone in the southern part of the map shows several geographically
interesting features. In the west there is the head of the lower Su-lo Ho
valley below the river's exit from the mountains. Further down the bed is
narrowed by the defile between the Wang-shan tzu-ridge, which is the eastern
extremity of the outer Nan-shan ridge, on the south and a flat spur of the
southern most party of the Pei-shan range to the north. In the basis like head
of the lower Su-lo-Ho valley the water shed slopes down gradually dividing it
from the plateau between the two outer hill chains of the Nan-shan, which
contains the small oases of T'a-shih and Ch'iao-tzu. The latter oasis receives
its irrigation from springs. But above it is a ruin which indicates that
irrigation was more extensive in former times.
The oasis of Yu-men-hsien derives its name from the ancient "Jade
Gate" of the Han wall. This gate was originally located far to the west of
Tun-huang (map 35 D-4). The cultivation here includes a level area of scrubby
and in parts boggy ground dividing the Su-lo Ho valley from the Hua-hai-tzu
depression to the east. This bit of topography divides the Su-lo Ho into its
main branch flowing west and occasional small streams flowing east.
The Hua-hai-tzu basin is a drainageless area bordered on the north by the outer
Pei-shan hills and in the south by the hill chain that goes south to
Chia-yu-kuan west of Su-chou. There are several other small streams that flow
into the Hua-hai-tzu basin.
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Notes on Sheet # 41 Ch'ang-ma
This map shows the mountain area surveyed from the foot hills of the Western
Nan-shan to the high snowy range dividing the upper Su-lo Ho valley and the
head waters of the T'a-shih river from the plateaus drained by the sources of
the Tang-Ho. The area was surveyed in 1907. The plane table work was adjusted
to the positions accepted for An-hsi and Su-chou. These mountains contain the
division between the Western and Central Nan-shan. But Stein notes that he
cannot definitively point to the location of this dividing line. The western
ranges up to the snow covered southern range are arid. But the Central Nan-shan
has a moister climate. From the T'u-ta-fan pass eastward there is much more
vegetation indicating more rain and snow. But similar signs were not seen when
crossing the Su-lo Ho hear Ch'ang-ma. A that oasis, which is at 7,000 feet
elevation cultivation depends on irrigation from sub soil drainage. Further
east the climate is less arid and there is surface drainage supporting
cultivation. This climate difference was seen also in the snow line observed in
July and August of 1907. The high range south of Ch'ang-ma had snow at about
17,250 feet while further east in the ranges seen from the T'u-ta-fan pass the
snow line descended much lower to 16,000 feet elevation. The Central Nan-shan
is divided into parallel ridges seen on this map. But the valleys between them
are not well marked. There is a gap in the survey between the mountains shown
here and those on map 43.
Surveys by other explorers may indicate that the high snow covered range in the
south, named the Suess Range, does continue into the high range south of
Ch'ang-ma with peaks above 19,000 and 20,000 feet. The next range north is
called the Emperor Alexander III range and it may be connected with the one
which Stein's route from the T'a-shih river was seen with a west- east bearing.
The massif of Erh-lung-shan south of Ch'ang-ma may be a link in that chain. The
To-lai-shan range may be traced in the succession of high peaks this map shows
as running towards the "Chu-chia-shan' just north west of Ch'an g-ma. One
may consider the extension of the northern Richthofen Range to be in the points
near the Su-lo Ho near Ch'ang-ma.
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Notes on Sheet # 42 Chin-t'a
This map was surveyed in the spring and summer of 1914. It contains the south
eastern end of the Pei-shan and the eastern part of the Hua-hai-tzu basin and
part of the wide trough in which the Kan-chou and Su-chou rivers join to form
the Etsin-gol. The map was adjusted for the locations of An-hsi and Su-chou.
The survey through the Pei-shan was adjusted for the terminal points of Barkul
and Mao-mei. For Mao-mei the latitude observation was 40 degrees 17' 49"
East. Its longitude was the mean between two at Su-chou. The southern area
contains a section of the Han wall traced from Hua-hai-tzu to the point it
crosses the Etsin-gol below the northern end of the Mao-mei cultivation. The
map shows the south eastern part of the Pei-shan, which is similar to that in
the adjoining map (# 40), that is completely barren. The map contains the
fifth, southern, range which was crossed by Stein's route south of the coal
pits at Mou-wo. In the eastern part of the Hua-hai-tzu basin there are belts of
drift sand and wind-eroded clay terraces such as appear throughout the areas
further west. There is a stony plateau separating the basin from the valley
containing the end of the Pei-ta-Ho above its confluence with the Kan-chou
river.
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Notes on Sheet # 43 Su-chou
The map was compiled mostly from extensive surveys made during the second
expedition but supplemented on the north and eastern sides with more survey
work from the third expedition. The surveys into the mountains from Su-chou all
closed back at their starting point. The location of this significant city then
was the basis point. Its latitude at 39 degrees 45' was established from
astronomical observation made during both jounreys at the temple of Chiu-ch'uan
outside the eastern city gate. The longitude of 98 degrees 33' is the mean
between values established by Mr. Clementi (98 degrees 26' 56.3") and
values from the Survey of India. This is slightly different from the longitude
shown for Su-chou in map 88 of the Serindia series. The routes to
Su-chou from An-hsi and Kan-chou were adjusted for those locations (maps 38 and
46). The southern part of this map contains the extensive mountain area of the
four main ranges of the Central Nan-shan. The plane table work was enabled by
taking positions on high passes and triangulating on numerous peaks in all
directions. The plateaus between ranges is open, giving clear lines of sight.
The area of the high spurs of the Richthofen Range east of Ma-yang-ho valley
were enhanced by survey accomplished by Lal Singh in 1915. The approximate snow
line was observed during August 1907 at 15,500 feet.
The map clearly depicts the three main regions of terrain between the Central
Nan-shan and the Etsin-gol basin. The principal physical features of these
regions have been described in Chapter II. The mountain region on the south
shows the wide uplands at the sources of the Su-lo Ho and the Su-chou and
Kan-chou rivers as well as the narrow, deep gorges by which these rivers cut
their way out of the mountains. The increased moisture of the climate toward
the east can be seen from the extensive forests at elevations above 8,000 to
10,000 feet in the valleys toward the Pacific water shed, marked by the
Ta-t'ung river.
In this direction the change in the character of the Richthofen Range from
steep mountain rampart to a system of broad spurs with easier slopes toward
their top is noticeable. This change in the lateral expansion of the Richthofen
Range determines the width of the second region, the plateau like belt
stretching along its northern foot. Owing to the line of oases in this belt the
corridor passage to the west was created. Su-chou is at the north western end
of the belt in a broad alluvial fan of the Pei-ta-Ho and smaller rivers which
flow out of the Richthofen Range. The rest of the belt along here is mostly
scrubby steppe with enough water for grazing.
The northern edge of the second region is formed by the low, barren hills that
are the western end of the Ala-shan. This range of hills with its slopes of
bare gravel or sand is similar to the Etsin-gol basin described for maps 44 and
45. The cultivated area ends where the Kan-chou and Su-chou rivers break
through the desert range to unite near the Mao-mei oasis in map 43.
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Notes on Sheet # 44 and 45 - Etsingol, Etsin-gol delta
These two maps join together to show the course of the Etsin-gol flowing north
from below Mao-mei to the terminal lake basins near the Mongolian border.
Etsin-gol is the Mongolian name. The south-west end was fitted to the location
for Kan-chou - map 46. and the rest of the surveys were compiled on the
observed latitudes along the route north. All surveys were done in May and June
of 1914 when dusty atmosphere prevented astronomical observations and distant
views. The terminal course of the Etsin-gol and its drainage less basin that
carries all the water from the Central Nan-shan are of great historical and
well as geographical interest. The route along the river has always been
important as a great natural highway from Mongolia into western Kan-su and thus
into China and was used by Chingis Khan who captured Khara-khoto. The ruin of
Khara-khoto adjoins the river. It was the Etzina city noted by Marco Polo.
The river area in the survey can be divided into three sections. From below
Mao-mei to the outlying rocky spur of Bayin-bogdo the river is confined to a
single wide bed in a trough flanked on the west by the steep gravel glacis of
the Pei-shan and on the east by a slopping glacis from the Ala-shan. At the
southern end of the Bayin-bogdo spur the river spreads out into a wider delta.
Among the number of traceable branches few now receive water. For most of the
year water can be obtained only from wells. In the narrow belts of riverine
jungle flanking the beds there are wild poplars. The two terminal lakes are
separated by a ridge and are at different levels, The Sogo-nor is 200 feet
higher than the Gashun-nor. The map shows the shrinkage of the Sogo-nor in
recent times.
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Notes on Sheet # 46 Kan-chou
This map is of the furthermost eastern area visited and surveyed by Stein
during both second and third expeditions. The work was completed mostly during
June and August of 1914. The map locations were adjusted for the positions of
Su-chou and Kan-chou. The latitude for Kan-chou was observed at 38 degrees, 55'
41" and then as 38 degrees 55' 36" North. A new longitude value was
determined at 100 degrees, 38' 20" East. The map 94 in the Serindia
series shows longitude as 100 degrees 49' 30" East. Stein lists
different values obtained by other explorers.
The map shows all he basic topographic features in the three regions shown on
map 43 to the immediate north. In the south there is the eastern part of the
Central Nan-shan drained by the Kan-chou river. The broad valley of the O-po-Ho
which is the main eastern tributary of the Kan-chou is included. The snow line
appears to be some what higher on the eastern ends of the ranges. The narrow,
difficult gorges in which the Kan-chou cuts its way through the Richthofen
Range are impassable except in winter. The plateau stretching along the
northern foot of the Richthofen Range gradually widens to the south-eastwards
as the spurs descending from the latter recede. The large cultivated area
around Kan-chou is possible due to the large flow of the river.
To the east of the longitude of Kan-chou cultivation along the foot of the
Richthofen Range is independent of irrigation due to increased precipitation.
The hill range to the north separates the inhabited plateauthe Kan from
southern Mongolia rises to a height of over 10,000 feet. The route surveyed
from Mao-mei to the Kan-chou river near Kao-t'ai provided evidence of the great
aridity of the climate prevailing in the belt of low hills and wide desert
valleys north of the middle course of the Kan-chou river. The route through the
mountains followed in 1907 from the sources of the Kan-chou river to the city
is described in Desert Cathay.
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Notes on Sheet # 47 Kungurche
The map includes a narrow belt of hills visited only by M Muhammad Yakub while
taking the camels to their summer grazing time. It lies along the Chinese-
Mongolian border east of the Etsin-gol.
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Appendix A
Discussion by Major Mason about the accuracy of the surveys and tables of
latitude, longitude and elevation data.
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