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BUKHARA - 1964
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These photos were made during a special tour
in Central Asia in 1964. There are many fine examples of medieval architecture
in Bukhara, but we were unable to visit them in the available time.
The city is located close to the Zeravshan River and is irrigated by numerous
canals that feed also into reservoir pools. It is 220 kilometers west of
Samarkand, which is also near the same river. The population grew from 50,000
before World War II to over 224,000 by 1970.
Once the capital of a sizable emirate, Bukhara was captured by the Russians in
1868 and again by the Soviet armies in 1920. The archeological investigations
show the site was a town from the First Century A.D. But it existed for
centuries prior to this period. The Persians ruled here between the 6th and 4th
centuries B.C. It was Markanda when Alexander the Great conquered the whole
area in 329, leaving it under Greek control. At various times it was part of
Kushan and Epitalite Hun empires. At one time it was under the power of Chinese
and Uighurs. It owed its importance to its location, by a river amidst an
otherwise nearly desert region and at the crossroads of the famous Silk Road
between China and Europe. It was taken by the Arabs in 709 AD by conquest. In
the 9th century rule went to the local Samanid family (874 - 999). Among the
most famous inhabitants of that era were the philosopher Abu-Ali Ibn Sina
(Avicenna, (980-1037) and the poet Abul Hassan Rudaki. The Karakhamid dynasty
ruled from 888 to 1141 and the Kara-Kitays from 1141 to 1206. From 1206 Bukhara
was ruled by the Khorezms who were destroyed in 1220 by Genghis Kahn who
demolished the entire city after a heroic defense. (But he was so amazed at the
Arslan-Khan Minaret that he left it standing). This allowed Marco Polo also to
wonder at its splendor during his visit. It was again sacked in 1273 and 1316,
but rebuilt each time. In 1370 Bukhara was taken by Tamerlane. But Tamerlane
made Samarkand his capital. The Sayhanid (Sheibanid) dynasty took control in
1506 and Bukhara regained its importance. The city was refortified by a strong
wall some 7 miles long and 33 feet high. (Little of this remains.) In 1740 the
Persians again conquered the city. But Shah Nadir's appointed local governor,
Mohammad Rahim, soon proclaimed himself emir and his dynasty then remained in
power until 1920. However in 1868 the Russian general, Kaufman, defeated the
Bukharan army and Bukhara became a protectorate with the emir receiving Russian
support. The Bukhara Emirate again expanded its control over a wide area. The
emir even had a palace near Yalta in Crimea. In 1920 the Red Army of M. V.
Frunze supported a local uprising and the last Emir fled into Afghanistan.
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Fortified gateway into the medieval citadel
(Ark) - Parts of this ancient fortress are over 2000 years old. It is built on
an artificial raised base and covers about 6 acres in extent. But the present
structure mostly dates from the 16th century. The emir's musicians and guards
lived in the gallery visible at the top over the entrance. The buildings inside
date from the17th to 20th centuries. .
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Propaganda display - this wall painting
depicts life in Bokhara under the 'old regime' that is of the last Emir. It is
inside the citadel.
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View over citadel wall. - note the shrine in
right side background
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View from inside the citadel over part of
ruined wall.
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Ceiling inside a room in the citadel
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Wall inside the room in the citadel
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Inside the citadel - columns and roof.
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Old building outside the citadel - gate in
background
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A section of the ruin of the medieval city
wall
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The Kalian minaret, built in 1127 by Arslan
Khan and is called the 'tower of death' - because criminals were thrown from
the window at the top of this tower until 1871- the tower was here at the time
of Marco Polo because Genghis Khan, when he leveled the rest of the city was
awe struck and decreed that it remain standing. It is 153 feet high and is the
tallest structure in Central Asia,. Inside the spiral staircase has 104 steps.
There are 16 openings in the gallery. The minaret also served as a watch tower
and also for a smoke signal beacon to guide caravans across the desert.
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Another view of the Kalian minaret
"Tower of Death" - to the right the entrance to the Mir-i-Arab
Medressah. From this view we get a perspective on the height of the minaret.
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Upper part of the 'tower of death' and the
dome of the associated Kalian Mosque ( 1540 - 1541.)
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Market square and building
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Community pool in middle ot town - one of the
remaining hauzes or reservoir pools which were the source of drinking water for
the population prior to the Soviet era building of water mains - note the nest
at top of the tree.
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The same tower seen from inside the citadel.
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Entrance into a garden
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Bazaar
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Barbeque being prepared by the city square.
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Bazaar
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Mausoleum of Ismail Sanami (built 892-907)
The hemispherical cupola rests on four archways. There are 4 smaller cupolas of
which only one is visible in the photograph. It is built of baked bricks. The
interior arches are surrounded by a vaulted gallery and an arcade.
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A shrine
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A shrine
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Street repair
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Work crew on the way beside city wall. note
the World War II truck
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More street repair
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Mother and child out for a walk from the shopping area.
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Children looking with some wonderment at the foreign visitor.
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Children beside a gate
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