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BUKHARA - 1964

 
 

These photos were made during a special tour in Central Asia in 1964. There are many fine examples of medieval architecture in Bukhara, but we were unable to visit them in the available time.
The city is located close to the Zeravshan River and is irrigated by numerous canals that feed also into reservoir pools. It is 220 kilometers west of Samarkand, which is also near the same river. The population grew from 50,000 before World War II to over 224,000 by 1970.
Once the capital of a sizable emirate, Bukhara was captured by the Russians in 1868 and again by the Soviet armies in 1920. The archeological investigations show the site was a town from the First Century A.D. But it existed for centuries prior to this period. The Persians ruled here between the 6th and 4th centuries B.C. It was Markanda when Alexander the Great conquered the whole area in 329, leaving it under Greek control. At various times it was part of Kushan and Epitalite Hun empires. At one time it was under the power of Chinese and Uighurs. It owed its importance to its location, by a river amidst an otherwise nearly desert region and at the crossroads of the famous Silk Road between China and Europe. It was taken by the Arabs in 709 AD by conquest. In the 9th century rule went to the local Samanid family (874 - 999). Among the most famous inhabitants of that era were the philosopher Abu-Ali Ibn Sina (Avicenna, (980-1037) and the poet Abul Hassan Rudaki. The Karakhamid dynasty ruled from 888 to 1141 and the Kara-Kitays from 1141 to 1206. From 1206 Bukhara was ruled by the Khorezms who were destroyed in 1220 by Genghis Kahn who demolished the entire city after a heroic defense. (But he was so amazed at the Arslan-Khan Minaret that he left it standing). This allowed Marco Polo also to wonder at its splendor during his visit. It was again sacked in 1273 and 1316, but rebuilt each time. In 1370 Bukhara was taken by Tamerlane. But Tamerlane made Samarkand his capital. The Sayhanid (Sheibanid) dynasty took control in 1506 and Bukhara regained its importance. The city was refortified by a strong wall some 7 miles long and 33 feet high. (Little of this remains.) In 1740 the Persians again conquered the city. But Shah Nadir's appointed local governor, Mohammad Rahim, soon proclaimed himself emir and his dynasty then remained in power until 1920. However in 1868 the Russian general, Kaufman, defeated the Bukharan army and Bukhara became a protectorate with the emir receiving Russian support. The Bukhara Emirate again expanded its control over a wide area. The emir even had a palace near Yalta in Crimea. In 1920 the Red Army of M. V. Frunze supported a local uprising and the last Emir fled into Afghanistan.

 
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Fortified gateway into the medieval citadel (Ark) - Parts of this ancient fortress are over 2000 years old. It is built on an artificial raised base and covers about 6 acres in extent. But the present structure mostly dates from the 16th century. The emir's musicians and guards lived in the gallery visible at the top over the entrance. The buildings inside date from the17th to 20th centuries. .

 
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Propaganda display - this wall painting depicts life in Bokhara under the 'old regime' that is of the last Emir. It is inside the citadel.

 
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View over citadel wall. - note the shrine in right side background

 
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View from inside the citadel over part of ruined wall.

 
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Ceiling inside a room in the citadel

 
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Wall inside the room in the citadel

 
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Inside the citadel - columns and roof.

 
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Old building outside the citadel - gate in background

 
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A section of the ruin of the medieval city wall

 
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The Kalian minaret, built in 1127 by Arslan Khan and is called the 'tower of death' - because criminals were thrown from the window at the top of this tower until 1871- the tower was here at the time of Marco Polo because Genghis Khan, when he leveled the rest of the city was awe struck and decreed that it remain standing. It is 153 feet high and is the tallest structure in Central Asia,. Inside the spiral staircase has 104 steps. There are 16 openings in the gallery. The minaret also served as a watch tower and also for a smoke signal beacon to guide caravans across the desert.

 
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Another view of the Kalian minaret "Tower of Death" - to the right the entrance to the Mir-i-Arab Medressah. From this view we get a perspective on the height of the minaret.

 
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Upper part of the 'tower of death' and the dome of the associated Kalian Mosque ( 1540 - 1541.)

 
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Market square and building

 
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Community pool in middle ot town - one of the remaining hauzes or reservoir pools which were the source of drinking water for the population prior to the Soviet era building of water mains - note the nest at top of the tree.

 
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The same tower seen from inside the citadel.

 
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Entrance into a garden

 
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Bazaar

 
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Barbeque being prepared by the city square.

 
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Bazaar

 
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Mausoleum of Ismail Sanami (built 892-907) The hemispherical cupola rests on four archways. There are 4 smaller cupolas of which only one is visible in the photograph. It is built of baked bricks. The interior arches are surrounded by a vaulted gallery and an arcade.

 
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A shrine

 
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A shrine

 
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Street repair

 
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Work crew on the way beside city wall. note the World War II truck

 
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More street repair

 
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Mother and child out for a walk from the shopping area.

 
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Children looking with some wonderment at the foreign visitor.

 
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Children beside a gate

 

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