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VLADIMIR

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John Sloan

For photos of Vladimir. The city has its web page here.
The "golden age" of Vladimir-Suzdal (also known as Rostov-Suzdal-Vladimir) was the 12th to 13th centuries. There was nothing left but the name by the time Moscow began its climb to fame, but the name was of such importance that it is well to provide a brief summary of the history. The principality was located between the Oka and Volga Rivers and extended as far north as Beloozero and Ustiug. Slavic settlers entered the region in the 10th century and soon made it the center of the Great Russian nation. The area is indeed the center, lying as it does across the river route from the Baltic Sea to the Caspian Sea via the Oka and Volga Rivers and adjacent to the route from the Baltic to the Black Sea via the Dnieper River. Vladimir town was not founded as a frontier fortress until 1108 by Grand- Prince Vladimir Monomakh of Kiev. See the section on rulers for descriptions of all these leaders. The original fortress had an earthen wall with wooden palisade. This brought the area under the overlordship of Kiev. Kievan princes were established in most of the Vladimir-Suzdal towns. By the middle 12th century the Prince of Suzdal, Yurii Dolgorukii (long arm) (Vladimir's son and heir) reversed the relationship by making the region his center and building many towns and forts, including his kremlin at Moscow in 1147. From this base he conquered Kiev and took the Kievan throne. His son, Andrei Bogoliubskii, moved back to Vladimir and made it his capital. He began a major construction program employing emigrant architects and craftsmen. When Yurii Dolgorukii died in 1157, Andrei became Grand-Prince of Kiev, but he preferred to keep his capital at Vladimir. In 1169 he marched against his enemies in Kiev and sacked the town before appointing a governor to rule in his name. Andrei was killed by rebellious nobles in 1174 and the throne passed to his brother, Vsevolod III. During his reign (1176-1212) Vladimir-Suzdal reached its highest point in political power.
The princes of Vladimir-Suzdal constantly fought each other and fought Kiev and Novgorod to increase their control. Meanwhile they campaigned against the Bolgars on the Volga and the Polovtsi on the southern steppes. Ryazan was defeated in 1177 (Battle of Prusovaia Gora) but Novgorod regained its independence in 1207. After Vsevolod's death in 1212, civil war resumed in earnest to such an extent that the Russian princes were in no condition to oppose the Mongols. The city was besieged and destroyed by the Mongols under Batu Khan on February 8, 1238.
After the Mongol attack Vladimir itself never regained its importance, although the senior title remained that of Grand-Prince of Vladimir. This title was conferred by the Mongol khans on whichever Russian prince they thought most politically loyal and gradually came to the house of Daniel of Moscow. The coronation of grand-princes continued to be held in the city's Uspenski Cathedral until the reign of Ivan III in 1440. Both Alexander Nevski and Dmitri Donskoi were crowned here. The early Russian chronicles were written at the Uspenski as well.
Vladimir (population 350,000) stands on the left bank of the Klyasma river. It is a center for trade and transport and now has numerous industries.
The Zolotye Vorota, Golden Gates, (1158-64), once the ceremonial entryway to the ancient city, is now in the center of town. The name comes from the fact that the giant doors were covered with sheets of gilded copper. The gate formed part of the western defenses. Its arch is a unique example of ancient Russian fortification architecture. Andrei Bogoliubsky consciously copied the design of the Golden Gate at Kiev. The gate was badly damaged during the Mongol siege and not completely restored until the 15th century. During the 18th century the church that typically stands atop a city gate was restored. Reinforcements were added to the sides, when the rest of the old town walls were demolished. Nothing remains of the other four city gates. The gate now contains a military history museum.
The Uspenski (Assumption) Cathedral from 1160 remains open for services. It was the most important of Andrei's constructions. He brought master artisans from throughout Europe to make this the supreme architectural monument of 12th century Russia. Originally the outer walls were covered with magnificent frescos and gilded half-columns. The cathedral was damaged in the city fire of 1183. In 1185-89 Prince Vsevolod III added a two story gallery around three sides of the old walls and enlarged the fourth side. The original walls were opened by arches, leaving their remainder as pillars and the entire building was enclosed by the new structure, for which additional cupolas were also added. The new cathedral was burned by the Mongols seeking to kill the princely family which was hiding in its upper part. In 1408 Andrei Rublyev and Daniel Chornei painted new frescos and iconostasis, but the Tatars again severely damaged the building during their attack in 1411. Until the mid 14th century it was the seat of the Metropolitan Bishop of All Russia. At that time he moved to Moscow. In the 1480's the Italian architect, Aristotle Fioravanti, chose this Uspenski Cathedral as his model for designing the Uspenski in the Moscow Kremlin for Ivan III. A major restoration was initiated in the 18th century and completed in the 19th. The iconostasis was redone in baroque style. Within the 20th century both the original 12th-13th century fresco and those of Rublev from 1360-1430 have been largely restored.
The Dmitrievski Cathedral dates from 1194-97. It originally stood within the courtyard of Prince Vsevolod III's palace. He built it in honor of his patron saint and new son, Dmitri. It was richly decorated and much of the original art remains. Tsar Nicholas I ordered the cathedral to be restored exactly in 1834, making it an exceptional example of the Russian white-stone construction with carved decorations. What makes it so important architecturally is the high relief stone carving all over the outside depicting human forms, historical and mythical, connected with Vsevolod's ancestory.
To the east of Dmitrievski Cathedral is the white wall of the Rozhdestvenski Monastery (1191-96). This was the most important monastery in Russia until the 16th century. Alexander Nevski's body was buried here until moved to St. Petersburg on order of Peter I in 1724. Northwest of Vladimir is the remaining part of the Uspenskaya Convent Church, built by Maria Shvarnovo, wife of Vsevolod III in 1200-02. It was the burial place for the princesses of Vladimir. There are also a number of fine baroque churches in Vladimir.
About 10 km east of Vladimir are the remaining ruins and structures from the palace of Bogolubsky built by Prince Andrei in 1158 as a personal stronghold. Nearby is the Pokrovskaya, Intercession, Church, built in 1165. This is one of the finest examples of 12th century Russian architecture.
Just beyond Bogolubivo, a short walk across fields and through woods is one of the most famous and often photographed churches in Russia. This is the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl built by Andrei in 1164 to celebrate a victory over the Bulgars (the reputedly brought some of the stone by ship.)

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